Back in the USA and back to reality...well sort of (I'm in Hawaii) : )

Once again, I have a little catching up to do. BUT, first on the list, I am back in America, visiting Kristen in Hawaii for a few days before heading back to cold, cold Waterbury. Nice little "buffer" on my way back to winter, no?!

But, let me get back to the Philippines where I left off last. I had just gotten to the paradise that is Boracay, one of the little "satellite" islands of a bigger island called Panay in the Visayas region of the country. Sort of complicated without looking at a map, but suffice it to say, it's a place worth looking finding!

My days in Boracay were really relaxing and full of beautiful scenery, many long walks, and lots of really friendly new Filipino friends--I found that there was often an instantaneous camaraderie that developed here and in Bohol, more so than in Manila. This was especially true with small groups of Filipino women when they found out that I was travelling alone. Eating at local places rather than the more pricey tourist spots helped me to meet people too, and I really appreciated the genuine conversation that people were so happy to engage in. Like I mentioned before, the focus on family and community in the Philippines is definitely a priority, and that mentality really permeates--many bungalows for 6-10 people are available and most restaurants serve meals for that are meant for 2-3 people, etc. Maybe not the best examples, but my point is that family, friends, and community are of utmost importance here and it's great to be around and welcomed into.

Some of the highlights of Boracay:
- a long walk from touristy White Beach to the more quiet, remote Puka Beach. (By the way, Puka is the Hawaiian word for hole and the shells all have a naturally occurring hole in the center, making them perfect for jewelry making...and yes, I did by a little bracelet made of the shells!)
- gorgeous sunsets dotted with tons of sailboats on the horizon
- Chicken Afridata for dinner at Rosa's while watching a Filipino talent show (think Filipino Idol)
- Going to Bulabog Beach on the east side of the island and seeing all the kite surfers
- wandering through the "back streets" and d'Talipapa (the wet market) seeing how regular life is for Filipinos who live on the island (not as diamond studded as the fancy hotels might make it seem)
- hanging out with some fun other travellers at my hostel/resort/dorm called Frendz, where you should all book a room if you head to Boracay on a budget - it was great!

I had to leave Boracay at the lovely morning hour of 4:30am, taking a ferry to the main island of Panay and then a 1.5hr bus ride to the airport in order to make my 9am flight...oh, the transportation in the Philippines just might top all the other places I've been!

I made it to Manila though around 11 am or so and caught a local bus to the Manila International Youth Hostel (think YMCA), which was near the airport. I had only one night to spend in Manila before my flight to the states, so I didn't want to be too far away from the airport...but MAN, this place was a little rough around the edges yet again! One thing that was interesting, however, was my company. Rather than young travellers (my usual company when staying in dorm accommodation), there was a group of women in their 30s-40s staying there for the week for a conference about preparing halal food. Without going into too much detail, I'll just say that besides learning a lot from the local people I came into contact with on this trip, I definitely learned just as much about people and places I've never been from the people I met in the hostels and dorms. This was one of those times for sure. These women also kind of "took care" of me and made me feel much less icky about the lack of comfort and cleanliness in our sleeping quarters! I think some of them are also now my friends on Facebook...oh, how great modern technology is, haha!

Manila round 2 managed to overwhelm me a bit once again, but things did go more smoothly since I knew what to expect a little more. For this visit to the city, I spent my time wandering among some chaotic street vendors, fruit stands, and an area called Guadeloupe, which had a different flavor than the other places I'd visited the first time in the city. I also made a point to go to the newer section of the city, Makati, where the business district is located and there are malls and shopping gallore! There are so many malls in Manila in general, you would not believe it. I even went to a church in a courtyard in the middle of a mall, and it was one of the nicest outdoor chapels I've ever seen - and lots of shoppers attended mass...I've never seen that before! Otherwise, I went on a good run by the bay where I managed to escape the traffic, and I just kind of tried to "soak it all in" as much as possible before Americans, English, and predictable food choices re-entered my world!

Some final thoughts on Manila: the contrast between the chaos, pollution, and mayhem of certain parts of the city and the clean, upscale, well-developed newer areas was really shocking. I'm really glad I went to the latter area on my 2nd visit, including spots like Greenbelt and "Bel Air," because my impression of the city as a whole totally changed. After my 3 or 4 days total in the city, I'd say that there's definitely a little bit of everything in Manila, you just have to know where to look and how to get there!

I guess that wraps things up. I can now sit on toilet seats, eat salad, drink water, and wear short shorts without a care in the world...

While the first hot shower (and all the ones since) did feel incredible, and I am having a wonderful time visiting with Kristen and enjoying Hawaii in all its glory, I'm not sure I will fully begin to digest and understand how this time abroad has changed me, my perspectives, and maybe my future plans for a good while. For one thing, I am grateful that I took bazillions of photos and wrote this blog because one of my biggest fears is that, as I re assimilate into "real life" and get wrapped up in trying to figure out my next plans and get a job, etc. that I will lose sight of how many things I have learned and experienced over the past 4 months. I have met some amazing people and seen and tried some amazing new things that have inspired and intrigued me in very new ways--I have definitely had some serious eye-openers, realizations about my own strengths and weaknesses, and priceless time to take a step back, relax, give up some control, absorb and reflect on life.

In particular, I have had so much time to think about what a blessed and fortunate life I have, and I have also realized some of the things that are truly important in the grand scheme of things. Beautiful scenery, exotic new foods, thrilling adventure activities, and all the other unexpected little treasures of travel are all glorious, but, when it comes down to it, it's the people that change you. From the ones I observed to the ones I deeply connected with, feeling connected to humanity on a whole new level is absolutely priceless.

And now to find some source of income...
kidding : )

Thanks for following along with me, and I'll probably keep writing for a while even though my daily life is apt to get a little more mundane (that's your out to stop reading these things and I won't hassle you to "read my blog!" anymore!).

Happy Holidays, and, for those of you who I will be seeing soon, I'm COMING HOMEEEEE!!!

Love,
Chloe

"Bahala Na"

Wow, it has been a total whirlwind since I arrived in Manila really early last Friday. Transportation here is RIDICULOUS to say the least. Basically, do not plan to go anywhere on a time crunch, and give yourself tons of wiggle-room for anywhere you need to be. Needless to say, after my first few days here, I decided that I had to scale back my “grand plans” of seeing a whole slew of the islands if I wanted to actually see anything and not just be boarding ferries, planes, taxis, etc. all day long.

That being said…there have been some seriously wonderful moments in the last 5 or 6 days, and I am so glad I came on somewhat of a whim after Thailand. It’s a totally new place and, while I try not to compare and contrast TOO much, there are just so many unique qualities of this place that it definitely will stay on it’s own separate pedestal in the realm of the “Chloe SE Asian Excursion 2009” : ) or whatever you want to call this big adventure… Also, it’s my first country to explore on my own—ahhhh , no travel buddy! Arati come back!

I do miss Arati, and it’s been a little weird getting used to travelling solo, particularly in a country where there really are not many tourists or backpackers (compared to the other places we went), but I’m getting the hang of it. There are ups and downs of course as there are with everything while travelling and in life in general I guess. And, while I have no one with me 24/7, you’re never REALLY alone here, (there are people everywhere!), and the Filipinos have been more than welcoming, helpful and so kind.

So let me give you a little run down of my Philippine Adventure thus far:
So, I got to Manila super early on Friday, Dec. 4th, made my way to the Red Carabao Hostel (in the middle of Nowhere Manila but really nice), and then was sort of wired and decided to walk all over the city as much as possible to get some of the travel claustrophobia out of my body.

I visited Rizal Park, where there is a 3D map of the country in a little pond of water, so that was pretty cool, and then I walked all over the Old Spanish Section, called Intramuros (because it’s walled off), which was definitely the highlight of the city for me.

Outside of the older section, the hustle and bustle, fumes, chaos, and overall “city-ness” was hard to stay calm in, but inside Intramuros, there is a little oasis. Horses with carriages, awesome old churches, and forts, cobblestone streets and some greenery make you breathe a little easier. Also, I went into the St. Augustin Church and museum as well as an old House in the Spanish Colonial style, and, though I wasn’t sure I was in “museum mode,” I’m so glad I made myself go in. They were both really well-done, and made you feel like you had stepped back in time. They were also really quiet and calming, which helped me again in my attempt to recover from all the travelling and chaos that started my day.

After Intramuros and some chicken adobo and rice (SO good!), I got into a tricycle to get to Chinatown, Ongpin Street, and the famous Binondo Church. The tricycle didn’t work out so well because, while the motorized ones (think of a side car that looks like a little like a horse chariot attached to a motorbike – maybe that works?!) are really efficient, this one was run by an actual bicycle…and my guy was struggling…and I felt really guilty about being pedaled around…and then it cost WAY too much…but I’m a sucker…and yeah, it was a long, expensive trip,…but OH well, right?!

I got to Chinatown, had some fun and random treats while I walked around (dumplings, more purple yam flavored ice cream, mooncakes, and some others), and got back into the hectic-ness that started my day. As the sun went down, I hustled to the LRT (metro/subway) to make sure I could get back to the hostel before it got too sketchy since I was all alone…

Now, get this: when I got onto the subway in the morning, I was a sardine in a sea of Filipino men…then, when I boarded at around 6:30pm, I was with only women. Why could this be? I naively wondered, “Perhaps all the women get off work at the same time? Many of them are in scrubs, maybe the hospital just let out?” Um, no. There are “women only” cars on the subway because women were complaining about groping men. Awesome. I kind of appreciated it though!

Speaking of Filipino men. They are very forward. Not rude or offensive (at least not so far!), just forward. Everyone here, like I mentioned, is very polite – lots of “Ma’am”s from all genders, ages, etc. and “Good morning”s abound, but that does not mean that there isn’t a lot of shouting and hollering too. Basically, what I’m getting at is the men here are not shy...so, ladies, if you need a good ego boost, you will feel like a queen walking around here!

The Filipino culture just has so many distinguishing qualities from those of the other places I’ve visited on this trip. In some ways, it is the prominence of an American/global influence that strikes you:
Jeepneys for transportation (transformed US Army Jeeps left over from WW2), NBA basketball jerseys everywhere, American song lyrics, ringtones, pop culture, Facebook, Starbucks, McDonalds, almost perfect English everywhere (it’s actually the 3rd largest English-speaking country), etc.

And then in other ways, there is a Filipino and Spanish-influenced uniqueness that makes it spicier and more fun:
Pesos, tagalong, delicious culinary treats!, patience amidst the chaos (there are very few Americans I know who would be able to keep their cool with the inefficiency and slow-ness, but Filipinos are much less antsy and rushed…maybe we could learn something from them in that capacity?), smiles and fortitude despite extreme poverty, strong communities, dependency on each other, Filipino pride

One of the other standouts for the Philippines is the fact that it is a Christian, and predominantly Catholic, country. No more monks, Buddhas and temples--bring on the churches and crosses! Catholicism and prayer is definitely very present in society here – there were prayers projected on a TV before the ferry departed, there are written messages and Bible quotes on the backs of almost all vehicles, and there are crucifixes and religious statues everywhere. Not to mention, there are tons of Christmas decorations, yeah!!

As a Catholic, I’ve really enjoyed feeling like a part of the community in that respect, and it’s definitely made me feel even more welcome and connected on that personal level. Unlike in many of the other countries Arati and I visited, finding mass to attend on Sunday was really easy here, and there were tons of people in attendance. It definitely adds a new dimension, has made me think about my faith more, and has opened my eyes a little bit to how the Church has evolved in a more global way.

So, back to things I’ve done so far here. While I don’t want to make this just a “list of sites” I fear that I’d just start blabbering on and on (even more than I already have/usually do) if I tried to make you get the whole “feeling” of all these places. SO, I’ll try to contain myself, but you have to understand that without my travel partner, I’ve had to keep a lot of thoughts in my head, so brevity might be especially hard for me today! : ) Anyway, here goes…

After the walking tour on my first day, a bunch of us in the hostel decided to go on a day trip to the town of Tagaytay and see the famous Taal Volcano (the smallest active volcano). We took the public bus for the 2 hour ride, and, before climbing to the top of the volcano’s rim (only about an hour or so up a dirt path with lots of people riding horses past), we stopped at “Peoples Park” for a look out point. While there, we basically stood next to a huge Jesus statue and took pictures of the volcano in the distance covered by fog while the woman from our hostel, Aileen, who was born in the Philippines and kind of became our tour guide for the day, told us that Imelda Marcos has built this park for the Pope when he came to Manila…he didn’t visit her park when he came…she even included a disco…did she really think the Pope would want a disco?!

So, Saturday was the volcano day, and we didn’t get back to the hostel until around 9 or so because of traffic, so I was pretty spent and slept like a log. Then, on Sunday, I had to get moving because I had booked a flight from Manila to the island of Bohol, my 2nd stop. However, before leaving, I went for a morning run in a big Chinese Cemetery by our hostel, where there are huge mausoleums built over the graves of Chinese people. Really they were more like houses than anything else and there was even a marching band and a funeral procession while I jogged through the place…a little strange, but hey? Why not? You never know what lies around the next corner…

On to the island of Bohol.
After the plane landed in the major hub of Cebu, I had to take a 2 hour ferry to get to the island of Bohol. See what I mean about transportation? Whew! Anyway, I made it to the island in time to find a place to stay, eat a big bowl of rice with shrimp and veggies, have some halo halo for dessert (which is mixed fruit with crushed ice, ube flavored (yam-like potato) ice cream in a parfait-style), go to a late night mass that I found in a huge, gorgeous church right by where I ate, and crawl into bed.

Day 2 in Bohol was going to be a calm day. I promised myself. Stay in ONE place…but thennnn….curiosity got the best of me! I started out by taking a Jeepney to Alona Beach on Panglao Island. I was more crammed in this Jeepney than I think I have ever been in my life. Sweaty people, dripping gasoline cans (hopefully full of water!), bags of fruit, rocks, you name it, and stops every 2 minutes for more passengers…but only 25 pesos – a real bargain! Haha.

Anyway, I got to a beautiful beach, but after a few good walks, some relaxing time, and some serious sun, I had to get to a cooler spot. That’s when the motorbike driver came by and I decided to hop on…and then my brain started finagling all the potential things I could see that I’d heard about, and you can see where this is headed! I decided to only see ONE thing that first day, and then go with the same driver the next day to see all the other things I’d heard about. So, first we went to the Tarsier Conservatory. What is a tarsier you ask? Well, first of all, think of Yoda in Star Wars.

Tarsier facts:
- really small (could fit in your palm), nocturnal primates unique to islands of SE Asia
- named for the tarsius bone because they have really long skinny legs
- they are not the smallest primates even though many people think they are
- they have huge eyes that are 150x humans’ eyes relative to body size
- they can jump 5 meters
- people are kind of obsessed with them here

So, after spotting the tarsiers and going for a short hike, day one with my awesome motorbike driver was complete, but I signed him up for round 2 the next day!
For the second day in Bohol (which started with a great run through a more rural part of the island (and I saw a rainbow!), I visited one of the country’s oldest churches, Baclayon Church, which was founded in 1596 by the Jesuits (and was having a big festival that day), I saw more tarsiers, visited these things called “nut huts” where people can stay in a jungle-y area by a river, saw the famous Chocolate Hills (a big bunch of random hills that sort of look like Hershey kisses…it’s a bit of a stretch, but still cool), had lunch in a little place in the back of a market in a town called Bilar, and saw a 250 kilo python (named Prony) that eats pigs and goats whole (1 per month)…it was absolutely ridiculous!

While it really was just a great day overall, and totally reenergized me and got me back on the “travelling is awesome bandwagon” (I was feeling a little beat down from all the transportation, waiting for transportation, and associated “trapped” feelings), I think my favorite thing might have been the lunch at the market. My driver was nice enough to take me to eat with some of his friends, and so I got to enjoy my first “real” Filipino meal--the jackfruit/coconut/rice combination was so delicious, I really wish I could make it at home! The family who owned the place was so nice, and there were tons of little kids to talk to, show pictures to, and just have fun with. They really made me feel so welcome there, and I love not feeling like a total tourist – it was such a great, impromptu stop – I don’t think he realized, but my driver definitely got a good tip specifically for that add-on destination!

After that awesome day in Bohol, I had to get on another ferry already to go to Cebu so that I could get a cheap flight the next day (today) to my other decided upon destination, Boracay Island and its famously wonderful white sand beach. Cheap flights between the islands here only leave at very specific times, so coordinating everything gets a little complicated, but so far so good with not missing anything (fingers crossed!).

Anyway, I ended up sleeping at a VERY gross hotel last night so that I could be near the airport when I woke up this morning. It was not very cheap and it was not clean (like I barely touched anything in the room and tiptoed around in my flip flops!) and the shower down the hall squirted water in every direction EXCEPT down…but the women that ran it assured me it was safe, so I chose it. Yikes, I was glad to get out of there this morning! BUT all the effort/yuckiness was completely worth it because Boracay is WONDERFUL.

It is absolutely one of the best beaches that exists—In my totally unbiased opinion, of course. It might be up there with Bali’s beaches, I have to say. Despite the fact that it is totally inconvenient to get to (unless you have more money to play with), the 3 km of white sand, abundance of water sports and activities to try, really awesome place where I’m staying, and good food, music and people totally reemphasized that while there are ups and downs in this crazy kind of travel, the UPS are so worth it! It’s not super cheap here (the country as a whole is not that cheap it turns out…), but I think a few days won’t hurt my wallet TOO much. I am also SO ready to not move around for a while – and this is the perfect place to stay put!

On that note, this is becoming a novel, so I will stop. As for what’s next? The rest of my Philippine adventure will be here in Boracay and then I will be flying back to Manila on Monday before I head back to the US (stopping in Hawaii for a few days and some birthday fun with Kristen, Phoenix for a 1 day layover, and then on to good old Waterbury for Christmas) – I cannot believe it is already December!! I’m going to freeze…
Keep in touch : )

Jeepneys, Tarsiers, and Halo Halo - Welcome to the Philippines!

I cannot write much right now, but I just wanted to let you all know that I got to Manila safely at the crack of dawn on Friday, and now I am on the island of Bohol.

I have so many updates - SOOO get excited, there is much more to come!

Bye bye Chiang Mai

Sooo, about that plan to go volunteer at the orphanage in the Karen/Burmese refugee village up north...things changed.

I guess that's what I get for writing something down before actually doing it! Long story short, I couldn't get in touch with the Karen woman who runs the orphanage (the cell number she gave me connected me to the airport - wait, what?!), and I felt a little hesitant about just hopping on a random, 6 hr. bus to a place that I'd never been without talking to her first. SO, I stayed in Chiang Mai.

BUT, I found a great orphanage to volunteer at here, called Baan Kingkaew Orphanage. The kids are really cute (like I want to take them home with me), and I'm so glad things worked out the way they did after all!

The orphanage opened in 1966, and it was the first charitable foundation (as opposed to government run orphanage) to house orphaned children in the city. Now, there are about 60 children between the ages of 3 months to 6 years who live there. They have been orphaned for many reasons, like poverty and disease, but also including things you might not think of, i.e. because their parents are in prison. Besides being very welcoming to volunteers and visitors, this orphanage is also very proactive in helping to arrange adoptions for the kids. I wish I could adopt them all myself (okay, well maybe just a few of my favorites...but they're really all so cute).

While there, I've been working (aka playing and cuddling with) mostly with the toddler group, but the "older" kids have been in the mix as well. There is a great staff of nannies, teachers, and nuns who work with the kids all day, and there is such a warm, loving atmosphere at this place. While it doesn't take away the sad reality that these kids face and will face in the future, it's really good to see such a great place that is nothing like the gloomy, scary Annie-style orphanage we sometimes think about. Here is their website in case you want to check it out:

http://www.baan-kingkaew-orphanage.org/

Other than playing with my new little friends, I've tried to do some more "Thai" stuff before I leave the country, such as:

I made sure to eat some more of the typical delicacies: pork dumplings, chicken in a curry puff, pad Thai, roti with whatever you want inside (well it's not Thai, but it's everywhere here!) and a few kebabs on the street - so yummy!

I took a local bus to Chiangdao Cave, where a guide took me around in the dark with a lantern and pointed out various shaped stalagtites and stalagmites (my favorites were the rooster and hippo...the turtle left a little something to be desired).

I saw my first temple made entirely out of silver - unfortunately women couldn't go inside.

I went to the Art and Culture Hall and read ALL about how the city was founded, the different hill tribes and how they live, the specifics about Buddhism, etc. My favorite parts were definitely the life-sized characters/models who were acting out "city life" vs. "agricultural life" - not too bad for a little museum! I also really liked this one display of painted umbrellas that were really gorgeous and colorful. There's a picture on the right at the top!

And finally, I went to a yoga class today. Many of you know how much I've tried to like yoga, but I keep failing (I just get antsy and bored!).

So, I tried a yoga class in Thailand.
Verdict?
Still hate it.
Sorry yoga lovers.
And they really do say "Ohmmmm" and ring a gong at the end. I didn't know that ACTUALLY happened. Oh man, I had the giggles, thank goodness no one else was laughing, or I might have lost it.
Again, I'm really sorry for those of you who love yoga.
I have no doubts that it does great things for your body and mind, and maybe I've just had bad experiences...maybe. That said, I'm still open to it...but my confidence that I'll be converted into a bonafide yoga-lover is dwindling.
Namaste?

On that note, tomorrow I'm going to say good-bye to Chiang Mai, my cute little friends at Baan Kingkaew, Thai noodles and dumplings, monks, temples, more monks, and yoga (at least in this country!). I've been here for such a long time it seems, actually LIVING here a little bit rather than just passing through, and it has definitely grown on me a little more than I anticipated.

As for "what's next?" - I'm flying to Bangkok and then to Manila, where I should be landing bright and early Friday morning. PHILIPPINES, here I come! However, I will not give you any more insight to my "plans" since that seems to jinx them from coming to fruition.

Oh, guess what? I heard Christmas carols today in Thai. Awesome.

10,000 Monks = An Orange Sea in the Streets of Chiang Mai

Well I didn't find pumpkin pie, but I did have some awesome Thanksgiving chocolate cake in Pai...I'll take that!

Since the drive back south from Pai to Chiang Mai, it seems like so much has already happened. First, I had to say goodbye to Arati, which was a little rough. However, then I was cheered up quickly as I made my way to Spicythai Backpackers, which is an awesome hostel, and one of the few "true" hostels I've stayed in. It's a converted governor's mansion in a secluded little neighborhood area near Chiang Mai University. I say it's a "true" hostel because, besides the fact that it's a house, I had to do things like check-out a breakfast set, linens, etc. and read the house "rules" before signing in. The ambience here is great - big, airy bedrooms have been converted into dorms, and there is an actual dining room to eat breakfast in, a really comfy living room with a big TV and lots of movies, and hammocks in the yard to relax in. Not to mention there are awesome people who work here and some really friendly young travelers staying here to hang out with. It was nice to have good company on my first evening without my travel buddy!

This place also kind of reminds me of the movie L'auberge espagnole...which I love.

Then, this morning, there was a huge ceremony (only held once or twice each year here) to give Alms to 10,000 Monks. It was something I had heard about during our visit last week to Chiang Mai, and I chose this hostel partly for its location right near by. I'm so glad I got to experience the whole thing - it was definitely memorable.

Last night, after I had settled in, the hostel leaders took a big group of us to the grocery store to "stock up" on packaged goods (like ramen, cookies, crackers, etc.) to hand out to the monks. Then, this morning, we all set our alarms for 6am, ate some bananas, and walked as a group to the main street that had been shut down especially for the event.

There were red carpets running the length of the street for a few miles, and, after (several) blessings in Thai were given over the loudspeaker, monks of all ages in their orange robes (hence the "sea of orange") walked through the crowds lining the street to collect the alms offerings in their personal bowls. The Thai people brought everything from canned salmon to milk or juice boxes to chocolate wafers to lotus flowers to money...and the monks collected it all. As their bowls filled, they transferred the goods to large black garbage bags, which were set up along the way. After the ceremony, the food and goods will be distributed to monasteries all over the country as well as to places like orphanages.

It was really fortunate that I went with the group from my hostel because one of the leaders (like an RA for the place) is from here, and he was able to explain a lot to me about both this particular ceremony and about monasticism in Thailand in general.

Some interesting facts about monks:
- In Thailand, being a monk is always voluntary/never compulsory
- Most monks join because their family is very poor and the monastery can provide for them (monks collect food every day from the neighborhoods around their temple) as well as provide them with a good education
- In the past, there were some monks who joined to evade the law if they had committed a crime (because previously monks could not be arrested!). Now, monks can be "arrested" by the monk authorities first and then formally detained by the police after being forced or convinced to leave the monastery
- Most monks join around high school age or older, but there are some very young monks as well
- Monks can eat meat because they cannot control what is offered to them, so if someone gives them meat, it is better for them to eat it than to waste it (but they cannot themselves kill other living creatures)

So, after we all handed out the food we had purchased and took lots of pictures (okay, that was mostly just me), it was still only breakfast time, and I was so happy for the free breakfast and coffee and some good conversation with my hostel mates, i.e. a German traveler from Singapore, an American guy and anthropology major from Seattle who just came from Europe, and an Australian from Sydney who had just arrived from Bangkok...lots of fun to start the day.

I did get a little antsy after that, and set out to try and arrange my tickets for the next part of this journey. Since I couldn't book things by myself online because of my foreign credit card, I had to find a travel agent - boo! HOWEVER, while the travel agent proved to be pretty useless, I definitely believe that there was definitely a reason that I ended up in that particular office.

After about 20 minutes of circular conversation with Noi (the very friendly, just not helpful Thai agent), 2 American men walked in and we got to talking. They are visiting from Saudi Arabia where they teach, and they were trying to help me out with my own ticket booking dilemmas. I mentioned that I wanted to volunteer wherever I ended up next (probably the Philippines), and Richard informed me that he was going to meet with a woman in 20 minutes from an orphanage for Burmese (Karen) refugees about related things and that I was more than welcome to join him...can we say fate?!

Long story short, if everything works out, I will be going back up north this week to volunteer in a woman named Te Te's village. I will hopefully be involved in setting up the Christmas celebration that they have each year there a few weeks in advance of the actual holiday. I can't wait for the experience and some holiday cheer!

Soooo, no plane tickets were purchased, BUT I am pretty excited for the upcoming week nonetheless. Things seem to work out if you let them. Patience, patience.

After the eventful morning, I spent the rest of the day just walking around lots and lots to get some energy out and see some of the parks and university grounds, etc. I also got a banana leaf with sticky rice and sweet potato mixed together on the street as well as a coffee banana milkshake, which might have been 2 of the best purchases I've made in Thailand!

Tomorrow I'm hoping to rent a bike and do some more exploring beyond my walking limits. Stay in touch, I miss you all!!

Can I find Pie...in Pai?!

First of all, Happy Thanksgiving!

I am now in little town in the mountains of Northern Thailand called Pai (sounds like Pie), and I am hoping that they have some confections of the pumpkin or apple variety around here somewhere.

Also, sorry for the brief hiatus in my blog. After getting to Chiang Mai from Laos, I had a bit of a stomach issue that kept me pretty uncomfortable for a while (basically it seemed like a knife thrower had taken up residence in my gut). Things are much better now, though, the first thing that I am VERY thankful for on this Thanksgiving!

So, where to begin?
Chiang Mai is Thailand's 2nd largest city after Bangkok, and it definitely has more "hustle and bustle" than Arati and I had anticipated. We pictured a little bit more of a Northern hill, lush green, brisk, mountain town, but, alas, it was pretty hot with lots and lots or motorbikes. However, the old city is walled off and separated a little bit from the chaos and hubbub by a moat. Yes, a moat.

We found a hostel inside the old city and, after my stomach acquiesced, I was able to let the city slowly grow on me as I discovered some of its small windy side streets and lots of unique and beautiful temples. The Lanna people of Burma and Northern Thailand influenced much of the architecture in Chiang Mai, making many of the temples look very distinct from the others we saw in and around Bangkok.

My favorite temple, called Wat Phantao, is crafted out of dark brown wood and has really intricate carvings and wood and gold detailing all over it. Also, it had a pagoda in the back made out of bamboo - really cool! Also, there were tons of paper lanterns all around the area, and the feeling was just very friendly and almost like a big group of children had decorated the grounds for a celebration. Very festive, cheerful and inviting.

Other than visiting the temples and wandering along the windy streets, here are some other Chiang Mai highlights:
1. I visited the malaria center (not because I was sick, just because I'm a big nerd and wanted to see it!)
2. Arati and I went to a tribal museum that taught us about the various hill tribes of Northern Thailand
3. We shopped in the HUGE Night Bazaar with everything from fake Birkenstocks to authentic blankets from the hills that could keep ANYONE warm!
4. I went to mass in Thai at the Sacred Heart Cathedral...the really nice girls next to me kept trying to share their hymn books with me...um, yeah, I can't read Thai...
5. We took some walks along the Ping River (as well as around the moat!)
6. We went for a ride in one of the easy to spot "red truck taxis" (basically converted pickups with sideways benches and roofs) up to a really gorgeous temple, Doi Suthep, which is at the top of a big hill overlooking the city. When we got up there, it started to mist, and the effect was really stunning (albeit a little chilly! There was definitely an added mystical aura from the fog and clouds.

Sundays in Chiang Mai are also a big treat, as some of the main streets in the center are closed off and a huge Sunday Market is laid out along the cobblestone streets. Food stalls cluster around the temples, and street performers do everything from sing to dance to play interesting instruments you've never seen before. I ate an awesome banana waffle (they had pumpkin and red bean flavors too, but I thought that might wreck havoc on my tender tummy), and tried to breathe in all the good energy on the streets. Lots of fun.

After our Sunday night in Pai, Arati and I boarded a minibus to drive the 3-4 hours up to the town of Pai. The ride was very windy, but we survived, and I'm so glad we did!

Pai is a self-proclaimed "hippie" town, and there are happy people and "hippies" of every age and ethnicity. There is definitely a very laid back vibe here, and there are coffee shops on every corner (and many in between). Some places you'll see if you come to Pai: the Flour Power Bakery, several bars with live music and some with campfires to sit around, bamboo tattoo shops(that's what the needle is made of - Dad, what tattoo should I get? kidding...), bamboo bungalows, pita and falafel shops, knit caps, guitars, dreadlocks, Volkswagen buses. You know, the usual "hippie" stuff, but you're in Thailand, so that makes it even more rad...right?!

It is really relaxing here, and it's been really nice to breathe the fresh mountain air and escape from the city again. We have seen some really nice waterfalls, and gone on some great walks and exploring adventures. Also, yesterday, I got up around 5am to join a group trip up to Mae Hong Son, which is a town right on the Burmese border. The trip made several stops along the way at some great attractions, including some awesome camping spots and villages where I got to see how so many different people live and work.

One of the most interesting and notable hill tribes, the Karen, are also called the Longnecks because the women wear big gold rings to elongate their necks. They also wear the rings on their legs and many wear large earrings that stretch out their lobes. Also called the Padaung, they are refugees from Burma who have been settling in Thailand for over 12 years due to political unrest in their own country. They can't work legally in Thailand, so they must rely on donations and the money that they get from selling their crafts to tourists and other residents.

At first, I was worried that visiting the Karen women would feel like exploitation (just lots of white people snapping pictures in their faces), but it really wasn't like that for the most part, and seeing the weaving and other crafts that these women produce was really interesting and motivating. They all seemed very peaceful, productive, and content, and, while I didn't get to speak to any of them personally about their thoughts due to language barriers, I didn't get the feeling that they felt exploited. However, I do think that these women need a lot more than people taking their pictures and buying their scarves...it got me thinking, that's for sure.

Well, I think that's a big dose of blogging for now, but I will write some more on Pai later (hopefully after some Thanksgiving grub!). We are heading back to Chiang Mai tomorrow morning before I have to say my tearful good bye to Arati, who is heading south toward Phuket without me, while I debate about where I will go next.

In closing, please know that I am so thankful for all of this adventuring, exploring and learning, and I am also so thankful for all the wonderful people in my life.

Happy Thanksgiving 2009!

Sawadee! and Thailand Round 2

Laos was absolutely awesome, and I'm still recovering a little bit from having to say good-bye this morning.

Arati and I just finished our travel "loop," and we landed back in Thailand today. We are now in the (highly acclaimed!) Northern city of Chiang Mai.

I haven't had a chance to write about our time in Laos yet (mostly because the internet was very expensive and I had a little bit of a camera/photo catastrophe the one time I did try to use it - don't worry, it was averted & the pictures were saved!), but Laos is absolutely going to hold a special place in my heart for a long time. I just might have to go back...soon, maybe?!

For our brief time in Laos (just 5 days), we remained in the city of Luang Prabang. Since we had done so much physical traveling while in Vietnam, we wanted to relax a little bit, and we had only heard bad things about the road travel in Laos. It worked out wonderfully, and I'm SO glad we got to take our time there and really soak up the magical town of Luang Prabang.

With arguably the cutest kids in South East Asia, constant smiles and greetings (Sawadee = hello), gorgeous natural beauty and architecture, great crafts everywhere, amazing shops and cafes, and some of the most peaceful and kind people I have ever encountered - what's not to love? In addition, the food was amazing and the there was not an ounce of stress in the air.

I truly don't even know where to begin, but maybe a list of highlights would be the best:

- 1 day of kayaking on a river, including eating rice/grilled fish on a stick (scales and eyeball included)/veggies from a local stand for lunch while playing in the sand with local Laotian kids

- getting stopped mid-morning run to join the line of women handing out rice to the monks as they collect their food

- eating at the vegetarian stand near the night market for only 5,000 kip a plate (less than $1); it was truly some of the most delicious food ever (especially the pumpkin!)

- going to a wonderful cafe called JoMa where they had pumpkin pie with WHIPPED CREAM and huge mugs of tea! (The owner came from Pennsylvania...figures) – it totally made my day

- running over one of the most rickety wooden bridges ever as the sun came up over the big golden wat on the hill

- crossing a (different) rickety wooden bridge to get to the artisan village with beautiful silk workshops and scarves galore

- playing with all of the adorable children at every opportunity

- hiking around a huge and beautiful waterfall until the rain stopped and then having a picnic lunch of a "Lao-style" sandwich stuffed with cheese, chicken and tons of veggies and waterfall mist

- visiting a photography exhibition called "Floating Buddha" with gorgeous photos of young monks on a retreat in the wilderness learning how to meditate (the photographer's name is Berger if you want to look him up)

- not getting hassled about anything: no pushy tuk-tuk drivers, no annoying tour guides, no pesky shop owners = bliss

- going to the night market FULL of awesome embroidered items, paper lanterns, and some of the sweetest (again, NON-pushy) people ever (we went many times!)

- practicing English and “teaching some grammar” to a Laotian student, Porher, at a place called “Big Brother Mouse” where foreigners can come from 9-11am every day to volunteer

- saying Sabadee to anyone and everyone

So, as you can see, I had a great time in Laos and, even though I only saw one town, I will forever have a wonderful impression of this country. It was very hard to get on the plane this morning and wave good-bye, but I really do think that I'll be back again. It's the type of place that you could visit at any age and take away from it whatever you are looking for. There is serenity and there is culture; there is peacefulness and there is spice.

And there is more beauty in the land and people than I could ever adequately describe.

So, now we are in Chiang Mai for an undetermined amount of time. I might try to find some work/volunteer work here, or I might stay here until I can establish something elsewhere in that realm. But for now, we found a place to stay and just had some ice cream, so one thing at a time.

On that note, I will leave you with a quote that I really liked from the monk photo exhibition that speaks to the need for simplicity in life

“Nothing whatsoever shall be clung to”

Think about it…

We climbed Fansipan (or "Fancy Pants" if you prefer)

We made it to the summit of the tallest mountain in Vietnam - in one day! My BUDDHA! (as our guide, Cuong, would say :)

Starting in the dark at 5am, Christina, Ben and I chased our fearless leader Cuong, who scampered up the mountain at top speed. Not too many people are willing to lead people up and back in a single day, but Cuong definitely had PLENTY of energy to do the job.

All in all, it was an 11 hour (pretty grueling) climb up and back, but there were some of the most incredible views along the way, and the physical challenge was so exhilerating. Once we finally got to the top, it was very chilly and windy, but we took enough time to snap lots of pictures up in the clouds that swirled around and sped by us...so cool.

I will be sleeping like a baby tonight...and walking like a Grandma tomorrow.

The Multi-faceted North (Vietnam cont'd)

Northern Vietnam has been quite a mixed bag of treats-- we've gone from urban comotion to starry nights on the water to mountain breezes in less than a week.

So, while I know that I have only had a small sampling of the country as a whole, I feel confident in saying that, from the people to the geography and beyond, it is a place with many, many layers.

I will take you from rainy Hue where I left off (by the way, it has been gorgeous weather again now that we have out-travelled the typhoon leftovers, woohoo!):

We took our last night bus (not something I hope to do again soon!) and arrived in Hanoi early Friday morning. We woke up on the bus just in time to see "Dog Meat Street" where there were lots of skinned dogs on display in shop fronts that were going to become dinner...yummmm. NOT. "Good morning Vietnam!" we shouted through the bus window (not really...and sorry for the lame joke, I never can resist).

Anyway, we really liked Hanoi from the outset. It is definitely chaotic, like Saigon was, but there seems to be a little more charm here - lots of little shops, cafes, etc., and there are some parks with lakes and nice greenery right in the center of the mayhem.

So, although we were pretty haggard from the long bus ride, we had a great first impression of Hanoi, and we did our best to explore it on foot for our first day there. One of the highlights at the end of our day was a Water Puppet Show, which is a traditional Vietnamese type of marionette show. Basically, puppets move around a water-covered stage while musicians play traditional instruments to accompany the "drama" that unfolds. There was definitely a lot of comedic relief incorporated into the stories too (like a really old man puppet chasing a sparkly fish puppet around with crazy windmill swim strokes), and Arati and I were cracking up for most of the show.

When planning our North Vietnam "section" of travel, we decided to head for the famous Halong Bay our next day. For a variety of reasons, we decided (a little begrudgingly) to join a package tour for the experience to make things a bit easier and cheaper for ourselves. It definitely worked out, and we met some awesome people, BUT the whole "package tour" thing probably won't get a repeat performance anytime soon...the guides and food left a little bit to be desired : ) BUT Halong Bay itself was awesome.

Halong Bay (Halong = Dragon) is on the North Eastern coast of Vietnam and has about 2,000 limestone islands poking out of the water. The islands come in many quirky shapes and all sizes, and they range from grayish brown rock to all shades of green. There are also some really cool caves that we got to visit with the biggest stalagtites and stalagmites I've ever seen...shout out to Earth Science again!

We stayed on one of the bigger islands, called Cat Ba, for our first night (of 2) at a hotel the trip leader had booked, and, in the morning, we got to visit the island's National Park for a "trek" up a small mountain. The top of this mountain had a VERY precarious structure that had these humungous flying wasp things all around it, but we climbed the rickety ladder, avoided the huge bugs, and got a great view of lush greenery in all directions as a reward. It was a really stunning view. The rest of the day included some beach time and a great (but chilly!) swim to one of the islands from Cat Ba Beach before we reboarded our "junk" (that's what they call the boats you stay on) for our 2nd night at sea.

Sleeping on the boat was really fun, but looking at the stars from the boat's roof was definitely even better. There is nothing like a full starry sky to make your thoughts wander, and our quiet night in the Bay was really peaceful.

It was a good thing we got some sleep because we were woken (not sure if that's a word...) up bright and early for a 7am kayak in the Bay. I felt like I was back at summer camp when the captain knocked on our door and yelled - but the paddling was really fun, and we got to go around some of the fishing houses, floating market boats, and local people who work and live in the Bay all the time. There were even little school kids paddling each other around on large row boats - really cute Vietnamese kids waving at you with a gorgeous natural and serene backdrop - great way to start the day.

Breakfast on the boat consisted of sliced bread, jam, eggs and the sweetest "coffee" you have ever tried and then we motored around the Bay, had one more swim near some little caves and then returned to the harbor to board the bus back to Hanoi. Halong Bay was really memorable overall, but I can't say I wasn't happy to get off the final minibus and escape the constant itinerary that came along with the package deal!

LUCKILY, after we regrouped a little in Hanoi (including some errands, showers, a book exchange, and a really nice, refreshing night run around a big lake in the Old Quarter), we got onto the night train for Sapa, and it was AWESOME. This was by far our best overnight transportation experience yet. The cabin we were in had 2 bunks, and the beds and comforters were nicer than those in 80% of the hostels and hotels we've stayed in. Plus, we shared our cabin with a Vietnamese couple who was really sweet and who kept to themselves, which gave us a nice breather from all the backpackers (not that we don't like them, just because there is a lot more chit chat involved in those scenes). I slept like a baby until the 5am wake-up call, and I'm thoroughly looking forward to our return voyage on the same train Thursday night - no joke.

Sapa (the town we're now in) has been really refreshing and calming as well. It is in the Highlands of Northern Vietnam, and it is definitely a place not to be missed. The terraced hills, gorgeous green mountains, and fresh air are incredible. While we've seen several hill towns in different areas, Sapa definitely has a different feeling from the others and its unique qualities will make it stick in my mind for a long time. I'm not sure I can really convey the vibe here, but I'll try: Imagine being up in the Alps (or in the Sound of Music hills) and then add Vietnamese hill tribe people (H'mong) with big cylinder basket backpacks, really windy roads and staircases, markets with fresh produce in little alleys, bright stitched fabrics, and wild pigs. Got it?!

Speaking of the H'mong--these hill tribe women are impossible not to smile at. First of all, they are all really tiny, some of them have to be under 4 feet tall, and they are all decked out in clothes made with the brightest colors, weaving and loud patterns you can imagine. Plus, they have handmade leg warmers, tons of fabric bags and pouches hanging all over them, and large silver hoops and assorted jewelry on at all times. Those of them who are right in Sapa town will follow you and talk to you for as long as you'll let them, and they all have amazing handicrafts to try and convince you to buy (I did cave and get some awesome earrings for about 20,000 dong and a really bright woven purse for about 70,000 dong - the money here is still so crazy!).

After checking into Sapa's Queen Hotel, which has an AMAZING view from our window of the terraced hills and mountains, we randomly met up with some Halong Bay friends (there are perks to doing group tours!). Together we had a hearty breakfast, went to a little craft market in town, and then ventured into the Cat Cat Village, where many of the H'mong people live.

As we made the very steep descent into the village, we got invited into an older couple's wooden house on the side of the road, and were treated to some liquor made from corn. It was STRONG! Luckily Ben, our Norwegian friend from before, took one for the team and helped the rest of us girls out when we couldn't finish our drinks. Thanks, Ben.

The rest of our walk was very hilly and included LOTS of pigs, chickens, cows, handicraft shops, and wonderful wind and natural beauty. There were even a few wild boar sightings - GO CHOATE! There was also a really pretty waterfall at the very bottom of the hill, and we got some serious photo ops in before we had to tackle the ascent back up to get out of the village. All in all it was a pretty full morning/afteroon, especially after our early start, and we were more than ready for a good meal and relaxing by the end. And some time to catch up on the good old blog!

Tomorrow, Christina, Ben and I are going to tackle Fansipan, Vietnam's highest peak. I'm so excited! At 3,143 meters (about 10,312 feet), it is called the "Roof of Indochina" - and we're planning to do it in one day (because we don't have warm enough gear to brave a night out there). We are hoping to reach the top and return in about 10 hours or so with our guide who we will meet at 5 am tomorrow morning - WISH US LUCK!

Rain, Rain, Go Away (in Hue)!

It's been a little rainy here, but the city of Hue has treated us well for our brief stay here. We really enjoyed our final morning in Hoi An (and I did try the famous "White Rose" before I left...it was okay, but Cao Lau was definitely tastier), and then we got on the bus headed for Hue around 2pm on Tuesday. The drive was only about 4 hours, so not too bad, and it was actually a pretty crazy drive up the coast because we were able to see a lot of devastation from the recent typhoon as we drove. There was even a huge tanker that had been beached, and tons of sea walls and roads that had been pretty much ruined.

So, yes, I don't love our rainy days, but I'll take a few over experiencing the actual typhoon any day!

We got to the town of Hue (rhymes with "day") around 6pm or so, and we tried to navigate the dark, rainy streets to find a decent place to stay (without giving in to all the hawkers shouting at us to stay at their grimy hotels for too much money!). We finally found a great place called the "Sports Hotel" of all things, but there really isn't any sports paraphernalia or vibe to speak of...but, there are great, CLEAN, comforter-like blankets on the beds AND a shower curtain (that's something we haven't seen in ages)!. After we unpacked a little, we wandered for a little bit before having dinner and then just calling it a night.

Our 2nd day here was much better than the first. It's definitely not easy to adjust to a new city or town in the dark (not to mention the rain!), so my mood was much improved after a run along the Perfume River (they call it that because the water is "clean"...I'm not so sure the brown water suggests cleanliness, but that's the story anyway) and one of the canals that runs into it. It was really nice to be able to run without combating traffic, and there were lots of little sidewalks and paths along the waterways that let me zone out and just look at the people and places around me. For example, there are lots of really cool dragon boats here as well as many, many simple/precariously-built houseboats where people live on the canals. The town in general is a little waterlogged, like Hoi An was, but it seems like the rainy season is on its way out, so people are pretty hopeful that the water will dissipate soon.

After a good run, I showered, had some eggs, bread and fruit (new one to add to the list = mangos teen, SO GOOD!), and I tried to write out a "plan of attack" for sights to see in this old town.

To give you a little history: Hue was the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty, which dominated most of Southern Vietnam from the 17th to the 19th century. Hue was also the national capital until 1945, and during the Vietnam War it played a central role due to its location right near the border between North and South Vietnam. This city is also another UNESCO World Heritage Site and it has some really unique and interesting buildings, tombs, pagodas, and other architecture--this was a little bit of a great perk for us because we hadn't done much research and honestly had no idea what lay in store for us!

So, after a refreshing start with a new morning, I consulted the guidebook and a website or two before we rented bicycles and set out for a day of exploring. Not long after we started pedaling, a Vietnamese woman, Roy (I'm sure her name is actually a lot nicer and more feminine, but it sounded like Roy to me!), came up alongside us and struck up conversation. As she rode slowly by our sides on her moto, we were slowly "convinced" to ride along with her to see two of the best tombs (the Nguyen Emperors' tombs are some of the best relics here) in the city. She stuck with us for about 13km to get to the first tomb, that of Khai Dinh. It was a really gorgeous building, with dark grey, almost gothic architecture, on a big hill overlooking lots of lush green pine trees, hills, and misty skies. Around the tomb itself was some incredible mosaic work, and it definitely felt like we had stepped into a little palace that you'd never know existed if looking from the street.

After visiting tomb #1, Roy was patiently awaiting our return, and she led us via shortcut to the second tomb, that of Minh Mang. This tomb was older than the first, and it had completely different architecture, colors, and landscape than the first. There were really nice ponds on the grounds, lots of bright colors, windy white trees, and peaceful pathways to wander on. I'm going to try and put some pictures up of these two places so hopefully you will be able to see them both!

After exploring the two tombs for a little while, we got back on our bikes and Roy took us to her home. It was a very modest wooden house in a village on the river (she kept apologizing for its simplicity, and we couldn't reassure her enough!), and she served us tea with a really adorable porcelain tea set.

Roy and her husband are farmers and grow crops like peanuts, corn, beans, rice, and bananas on her mother-in-law's farm a few kilometers down the road from her place. She has a daughter and a son, 13 and 15 years old, and she has clearly worked hard for their education. Roy is pretty remarkable herself, as she has taught herself English by simply spending a few hours each afternoon (or as often as possible) talking to tourists on the river bank. She was unable to get much proper schooling because her family was too poor to send her to school for long, but she loves to learn. She kept thanking us for taking the time to talk with her, and we clearly enjoyed her and such a special afternoon in her home. It was also interesting and a little scary to hear her recount how the typhoon had impacted her village and the farmers' lives. The people here, just as so many places we've visited, are clearly tough and very resilient. I am, once again, definitely impressed.

After our time with Roy, we cycled back on our own to see the Thien Mu Pagoda, which is the largest pagoda in the city and its "official symbol." My favorite part of visiting this pagoda was seeing all the really young children in monk attire (some were probably only 8 or 9 years old!), with shaved heads and only one long tuft or lock of hair remaining. The kids were really cute, and they were running around as though they were late for class...hmmm...maybe all kids are the same after all!

We then cycled around the Citadel before returning our bicycles for the night and then found some satisfying food for dinner and tucked into bed.

Today has been a pretty rainy morning so far (hence the blog update already!), but I still got in a great run along the river, and I'm appreciating some time to catch up on picture sorting, uploading, etc. Then, tonight, we leave on another (GASP!) overnight bus that will take us up to Hanoi. It leaves around 5pm and gets to Hanoi about 6am tomorrow...oh mannnn. Sleeping pills, anyone?!

I hope everyone is doing well & getting a good dose of some fall colors, which I'm missing a little bit. Along with some cider...that sounds so good right now!

After Hanoi, we plan to go into the Northern part of the country, to Sapa, where there should be a little brisk, autumn-like weather, so that will be a nice? reminder of the Fall. Then again, I've never really liked being very cold, so maybe I should just get over it :)

Thinking of you all...

Hoi An and Cao Lau are two little gems of Vietnam!

It's been a lonnnnng day, but we are safe, happy (and a little waterlogged) in the really quaint town of Hoi An.

Back in Na Trang, our last spot, we spent our first day, which was a little overcast, exploring the coast by bicycle and going for some good walks to explore the area. It was a little chilly for swimming in the ocean waves, but the coastline was really pretty to walk along, and the beach itself was very inviting. Lots of locals playing volleyball, playing in the surf, and just enjoying the fresh air. It is typically a touristy spot, but we didn't feel too overwhelmed by other tourists for the most part.

There are lots of little islands off the coast in Na Trang to look at as well, and their hilly, lush green forests a make the horizon really picturesque and kind of like a scene from a movie in the tropics. The town is pretty built up (there were even major hotels like Sheraton and Novotel), and there was definitely more happening and going on than in the tiny towns of Mui Ne or Dalat where we had just come from. It was definitely a change of pace, but really each place we've been in Vietnam has been very unique so far.

Day#2, Sunday, in Na Trang was even better than the first, as we signed up for a $7 boat ride to the islands and a "snorkel trip," which turned out to be completely ridiculous, but totally fun. There was very little actual snorkeling and the available masks were so scratched that we couldn't have seen much even if it had been a great coral reef scene, BUT the whole day was so absurd (and wonderful!) that I doubt I can do justice the acivities...but I'll try.

The tour company took about 60 people or so out on a medium sized ferry-style boat out to the 4 islands. The boat had about 10 foreigners (Australians, one Italian, one British man, and a handful of other Americans) and lots of Vietnamese people, and it departed the dock around 8am. We were quickly greeted by our leader, who was very engaging and told us how much of a "party" we were about to have...it was a LITTLE early for his enthusiasm, but we were excited...as long as we got lots of swimming time and not too much sitting on the boat time! Anyway, we did get to enjoy some gorgetous weather and calm water as we puttered across (the boat was NO Speedy Gonzolez)to each island. The snorkeling, as I said, did not turn out to be great (plus there were tons of baby jellies stinging us like crazy!), but there was a total Vietnamese feast for lunch (the benches we sat on turned into a table on the boat), a band that played music for us (the benches/table then turned into a stage), great swimming and really awesome people on the trip to get to know. It was a beautiful day overall. After returning, I went to church in Vietnamese (which I understood VERY little of, but was a great way to top off the day), and then we got ready/geared up for the dreaded night bus ride to the next town, Hoi An. Hoi An would be our "halfway" checkpoint since it is almost halfway up the country between Saigon and Hanoi.

The bus ride overnight was QUITE the experience. Each person got their own TINY little reclining seat with a hole to put your feet in under the person in front of you's head. If you were any wider than a pretty tiny individual, you definitely would not have been able to fit into this lovely set-up--the seats were so skinny! The drivers here also feel the need to blast the horn pretty incessantly for every little thing that comes within 100 feet of their vehicles...not really like a lull-a-bye to put you to sleep...

So, the bus left Na Trang at around 7:30pm, we stopped once at a restaurant around midnight, and then it drove nonstop until Hoi An, where we arrived around 7:30 am today. There was not a lot of sleeping going on, but it was really nice to get all the road time out of the way without wasting a day. We've been a little groggy though today...but we made it!

So, we are now in Hoi An, and, although it's been a very rainy day, I really, really like it here. It might be my favorite town that we've see in Vietnam so far. It is so quaint and charming! It is atually another (like Melacca in Malaysia) UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you really feel like you are walking around in a little European town as you navigate tiny streets, art galleries, cafes, and clothing/leather/souvenir shops. There is a ton of water because of all the rains, like I said, so the river that the town is on is really, really full, but there are still people riding around on bikes and motorcycles, even through the flooded streets. Life is busy and carrying on as usual.

This is also THE place for tailoring and shoemaking, and you can basically pick out any design of clothing or shoes that you'd like, and someone can custom-make your creation for you in about a day. I "created" some red leather sandals today that I'm pretty excited for pick-up tomorrow afternoon!

Besides just wandering and getting the feeling of this place, Arati and I also paused to have lunch and read at a little cafe that served the local specialty, Cao Lau, which was SO yummy. It's basically a bowl of special, thick, fat noodles with croutons (but more like rice puffs than American croutons) a few veggies, tofu (or pork if you want), and a really tasty sauce. Not too complicated, but the combination is really delicious. The other local specialty here is called White Rose, and it is basically a steamed dumpling with shrimp inside - I'm pretty excited to try that out soon. In general, the food here seems much better, healthier, and more enticing overall than the other places we've been in Vietnam, and we're pretty happy with that development (In trying to keep my stomach "happy", I've had so many bananas, peanut butter, egg dishes and white rice since we've arrived...so ready for some variety, fingers crossed!).

After a few days here (hopefully the rain will clear up for us tomorrow!), we are going to go to the next coastal town of Hue and then we'll make another long haul bus trip up to Hanoi. I am really liking Hoi An though, and I'm excited to spend a few days decompressing here and soaking up some really great architecture, food, sights, and culture.

Oh, and Happy Belated Halloween from Vietnam!! (We actually DID find a little Halloween party at our hostel in Na Trang...there was no trick-or-treating (so I had to pay for a little chocolate treat on principle), but the staff and guests of our place were ALL decked out in costumes and free face painting made the scene much more festive. I hope you all got some good costumes and had some serious chocolate on my behalf! Until next time - rabbit rabbit!

From Mui Ne to Dalat to Na Trang…Movin’ on up!

It’s Thursday evening, and we are now in Dalat, a really nice hilly town in the Central Highlands of South Vietnam. We recently returned from QUITE the whirlwind tour of the area with a group of guides, called the “Easy Riders” who drive you around the countryside on motorcycles and tell you all about things here, but I'll get back to that in a minute...

So, we got here from Mui Ne, our last stop, via an experience that will for sure be one of our most memorable (read: awful) transportation memories! Imagine the following:

1. Friday morning - we are sitting in a little tourist office waiting for "Big Sitting Bus" to arrive at 1pm. It is hot, VERY hot, and we are sweating bullets.
2. A mini bus (“this can’t be the bus, right?” we think) arrives around 1:30pm, JAM PACKED with Vietnamese people and 2 shouting drivers beckon for us to come over.
3. The drivers take our big bags and proceed to CRAM them mercilessly under the back seats of the van.
4. We climb over the back seat from the trunk to get in because there is absolutely no other way.
5. We stop 10 minutes later for one more large Irish man (that's it we think...right?). We exchange knowing glances (Yep, this is THE bus).
6. We stop to pick up another Vietnamese couple who sit in our back seat with us, and Arati has to hold the man's luggage over the back seat while the driver slams the trunk closed.
7. We get onto the very bumpy, windy road for our (supposedly) 4 hr. journey to Dalat.
8. The van overheats on its way up a hill.
9. We all kindly donate our water bottles to remedy the problem...and we get to drive about 100 more meters up the hill as a result of our donations.
10. We find a stream and proceed to fill plastic bottles with water and dump them on the engine to cool it off. It works (fingers crossed). We leave again.
11. The drivers turn on the loudest, Vietnamese/Western pop music on for the remainder of the now 5+ hour ride and the speaker is pretty much in my left ear.
12. We get to Dalat just as the sun is setting.
13. We haul our bags and check into our hotel. Its name? The Peace Hotel J

BUT, we are, once again, safe and sound...with memories and more memories.

ANYWAY, the town of Dalat itself is very different from Mui Ne, where we thoroughly enjoyed the beach and most of all sledding on the plastic sleds down the sand dunes. What great fun! We also got to go to the "Fairy Stream" there where you seemingly walk on water because it's so shallow (see the picture at the right)...it actually was a big tourist trap/sight in our opinions, but it was still really pretty even though I did not feel like a fairy at all. Oh well.

Dalat is much cooler and crisper than Mui Ne because of the altitude change. Yesterday, I went for a long trek up 3 peaks with 2 awesome Vietnamese guides and 2 other Dutch travelers who were on a 3 week trip here. The 5 of us started by ascending the tallest peak, which is 2,169 m tall, and it was a REALLY steep, muddy climb, but lots of fun of course. There were really gorgeous views of all the terraces of farmland, horses all over the place, coffee plantations, and a big lake off in the distance. There were also many different kinds of plant life, from really tall pine trees at first to jungle plants and trees later on, and there were hardly any other people there, which made things very peaceful. After the first peak, we had a lunch of bread, cheese, and as many different fruits as you can imagine (bananas, pineapples (with chili powder!), dragon fruit, lychee, mandarin oranges, cucumbers, etc.) - yummmm. Then, we went up the other 2 (easier to climb) peaks before going all the way back to the bottom.

Our guides were 2 Vietnamese tourism students who were about 24 years old also. It might be an obvious thing to say, but, as we travel, I especially love getting to know people my age from the countries we're visiting. It just makes it much easier to compare cultures and then imagine things like what your life would be like if you lived in another country.

So, all in all, it was a great first day here, and the fresh mountain air felt incredible (particularly after the terrible bus ride!). Arati and I crashed really early though, and barely made it to our beds before passing out!

Today, as I mentioned at the beginning, we got a whirlwind tour of the area and a much closer look at some of the countryside I’d seen from the mountain tops. It's not really a town that you can explore adequately on foot or with bicycles even because the "good stuff" is all really spread out. Our "Easy Rider" motorcycle guides were so great, and, unlike my trekking guides, our two fearless leaders, Tue and Hip ("like Hip Hop" he noted) were more around grandpa age - which made for a nice contrast with my previous day. These 2 men have been a part of this tour group from its foundation in 1992, and were so knowledgeable about everything we saw and much more. They clearly love both their town and country, and they were more than willing to give us some of the best hands-on history and culture lessons that I've ever had.

Together, the four of us went all around and visited the following places/sights:
1. The first Buddhist Pagoda in Dalat, built in 1921.
2. Flower farms with Gerber daisies and roses - interestingly, the techniques for flower farming here were adapted from the Dutch methods a few decades ago. Hip told us that it wasn't until the embargo from the US was lifted and the economy started to improve that "peoples' bellies were full so they could then appreciate flowers"
3. A small coffee plantation - did you know that Vietnam is #2 for coffee production? (Brazil is #1, Colombia is #3, followed by Mexico and then Indonesia). I didn’t know that.
4. Small homes where people were: basket weaving, making brooms, and making rice wine to sell at the markets
5. A silk factory - It was so cool to see the whole process from start to finish, AND I ate a dried silk worm larva! It tasted like a peanut :)
6. Elephant Falls – a really pretty, and quite big, set of waterfalls.
7. The Crazy House - a hotel created by a Vietnamese woman and architect with really unique themed rooms (i.e. the bear room, pheasant room, kangaroo room, and termite room!) and staircases and walls that are skinny and twisty and topsy turvy. You have to look this place up to see some photos! We felt like we were in Alice in Wonderland.
8. A cable car across the hills and farms

PHEW! Long day! But definitely exhilarating too - I'm a little worn out though, and I'm looking forward to a slow and relaxed night.

After 2 great days here, we are leaving on a bus (cross your fingers for a real BIG BUS this time!) tomorrow morning to head back toward the coast to a town called Na Trang, where it should be warmer and there is supposed to be some good snorkeling.

After that, we are going to really start working our way up this long skinny country, which has a coastline of about 3,000 km (1,864 miles). They say it's only a little longer than California though if you are not following the coastline exactly (or just over 1,000 miles), so HOPEFULLY, we won't feel the miles add up too quickly! Arati is definitely better at being zen-like on the long bus rides than I am. I'm still working on that skill and usually just read, do tons of crossword puzzles, and stare out the window with some music...I'm trying to tame the "antsy-ness" gene as much as I can :) I just love moving OUTSIDE the bus so much more… but I guess it’s inevitable that you have to travel to get TO the places. Not a terrible downside of this whole adventure if there must be a couple.

Anyway,
that's all for now.
Hopefully you all can see some of the new pictures I was able to put up from some random times during the last 8 weeks. I'll keep trying to get more up.

Also, sorry if there are lots of misspellings. The spell check feature no longer works it seems and I can't catch all my mistakes when I'm trying to keep my internet time and fees minimal - hopefully they aren't too bad!

Ho Chi Minh City - don't get hit by a motorbike!

The (slightly shabby) sign at the border reads: Welcome to Vietnam!

It was QUITE a 12 hour bus ride from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City on Friday (with only a couple very short bathroom stops along the way), BUT, 1. we made it, 2. there were definitely some great views of the countryside out the window, and 3. I got lots of reading and reflecting done on the ride - always a bonus.

Sidenote: If anyone has some good book recommendations, I'd love some suggestions (just not anything TOO recently released because I think I'd have trouble finding them).

To backtrack a little bit, our final day in Siem Reap was awesome - possibly my favorite day of our time there.

We woke up, had some tea, bread and peanut butter, and re-rented our same bicycles (honestly the best bike I've rented EVER, and for only $1!). It was our last day at Angkor Wat, and we were excited/a little sad to use up our last day on our 3-day pass.

For our last big temple day, we chose to bike out to one of the most famous temples, Banteay Srei, which was about 40km from our hotel. It was a gorgeous ride (and for those of you that know how much biking kills my knee, it DIDN'T!). We also stopped at the Cambodian Landmine Museum on the way, which was really interesting and hit home. We have seen many disabled, landmine victims in town or begging on the streets, but this was the first time we had a chance to really learn and read about some of their stories and the history of landmine use in war, and especially in Cambodia in the 70s. It really is an atrocious practice and inhumane tactic to say the least--and the US, among other powerful countries, has not committed itself to not utilizing them in present or future wars. Read more about that if you're intrigued.

Anyway, the founder of this particular museum is a man, Aki Ra, who is a former Khmer Rouge Child Soldier. He created the museum right alongside the temples of Angkor Wat as a place to showcase many of the decomissioned mines, bombs, and other explosives from the war that he collected in his tremendous efforts to help make his country safer. Today the museum is a liscensed NGO and there is also a dormitory and education center for children affected by the war, many of whom have disabilities because they have been hit by landmines themselves. If this is a topic you have heard about, but not really understood or delved into, I'd definitely recommend reading the info on the website for this museum. Sorry to be "one of those people" who make you check out websites, but I'm going to anyway. It's cambodialandminemuseum.org.

After the Landmine Museum, we got back on the bikes and pedaled to the Banteay Srei temple, which was really beautiful. The most unique characteristic of this temple was the intricacy of the carvings and the ornate details on the walls, arches and doorframes (for lack of a better word!). This temple was also shorter in height and more sprawling than some of the others we'd seen, and it had grassy patches, rice fields, and a few ponds with lotus blooms around it - really pretty area.

After touring around the temple, we got back on the bikes for 12 more km to get to Kbal Spean - a waterfall temple up in a jungle area. We paused for a quick snack while the rain poured down, and then the sky cleared just in time for us to make it to the top of the small mountain. There were some really gorgeous panoramic views, and the carvings in the river and alongside the waterfall were really interesting. Luckily there were guides stationed at the top to show us where the carvings (of things like crocodiles, frogs, lingas, and other gods and goddesses) were loacated...we would have never found them on our own! We then got back on the bikes around 3 or 4pm to try and tackle the 60km back to town.

The countryside, rice paddies, and local people shouting and waving while I pedalled back were so surreal and exhilerating. One definite highlight--a Cambodian woman pedaled up beside me at one point and we rode together for a while, mostly in silence because she didn't speak any English and I still don't know much more than "Thank you" in Khmer...and then, just as she was about to turn off onto a side road, she handed me one of the items in her big basket. I had no clue as to what it could be, but it turned out to be a hollow sugar cane(?) husk with a mixture of sticky rice and beans packed inside. How adorable and kind was that?! Again, good people here. I have to agree with all the rave reviews people give Cambodian people--between our experiences in Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville at the school, and out in Angkor Wat, I have only great things to say about the people here. Maybe it is all the monks riding around on motorcycles...constant reminders to be zen-like? Well, maybe not. But, whatever it is, I like the vibe. So, back to the bike ride, I JUST made it back in time (though there was some very scary pitch black biking towards the end!). Needless to say, it was a muddy, sweaty, and wonderful day. And my body was VERY happy for dinner and the prospect of the next day being mostly sedentary on the bus!

This is getting to be a little long again (shocking...not), but I definitely want to write a little bit about Vietnam so far. We got here in the middle of a downpour on Friday night, and made our way to "Yellow House" hotel along with a new (Canadian-shout out to Abby!) friend we met on the bus. We immediately noticed the economic differences between Vietnam and Cambodia, with things like taller, cleaner buildings, fancy stores every once and a while, and shiny new cars on the road. Pretty crazy to think about it being a Communist country too... Anyway, we got settled, fed and tucked into our new "home".

Saturday was our first real day here, and we got up bright and early per usual. I started with a great morning run to get my bearings and some initial reactions to the bustling city that I've heard so much about. First of all, the traffic here is absolutely insatiable (I hope that word makes sense there!). It is absolutely intense, but at the same time, it is really organized and there seems to be no road rage to speak of. People cross the street while thousands of motorbikes are headed right at them, but no one gets hit. There are horns beeping warning once and a while, but I have not seen anything like an impending accident or disaster. I will not be renting a bicycle here - that is for sure! Anyway, I survived the run and street crossing without disaster, and I got to seem some pretty cool streets, buildings (like Notre Dame Cathedral and the Opera House) and views of the Saigon River.

Arati and I then ventured to the "War Remnants Museum," where we got a huge dose of history about the Vietnam War. I have always been interested in the Vietnam War, but never understood so much of what actually happened, and finding out at this museum was definitely an eye-opener. The placards were definitely not glossed over, and the American involvement was not referred to calmly to say the least ("external fascism" was used on one sign). There was also a whole section of the museum devoted to the use of toxins and Agent Orange, and, for me, that was one of the most insane things to process. One placard noted that a tabelspoon of dioxin could kill a whole city with a population of 8 million people, and there were tons of photographs of the horrific ways that people and their children were disabled from the poison. Awful.

From the museum, we went to the Reunification Palace (or Independence Palace), where there are (supposedly) still events held by the current president. The architecture of the building was really strange and boxy, and it looked like something out of the 60s I'd say (though I'm not really sure about decades for architecture). The decor in each room was focused on one color, like one room was all mustard yellow, one pea green, etc., and, for the most part, the furtniture was all very straight and stiff looking. Basically, you would NOT be able to snuggle up on a cozy couch at this place...but I'm not really sure that the government really wants to promote such warm and fuzzy feelings anyway. Just saying.

Our legs were a little tired by this point, but we split up for some solo wandering anyway, and I went to the big market for a little while. Much bigger (or at least taller) than the Cambodian or Malaysian markets that we visited, the market had everything from coffee and trinkets to "Adidas" shoes and silk robes. It was definitely fun to browse and I even bargained (not very well) and got some almonds and shampoo - 2 necessities, clearly. Dinner followed and consisted of a delicious, basic meal of veggies and red rice in a clay pot that I watched the women cook in front of me. For lunch I had ended up in a restaurant that had duck in every single dish...it was good, but a whole restaurant centered around duck? Really?! The food here is definitely cheaper than it was in Cambodia (which was suprisingly NOT that cheap!)...so that's been a nice relief. Fell asleep pretty soon after that, one big whirlwind of a first day in Saigon.

Today was day 2, and it has been a more chill day for me. I ran this morning through the park (did NOT cross nearly as many streets this time!) and then walked around a while before going to church at Notre Dame with tons of other Vietnamese and foreigners. It was a really cool experience, and it was probably the first really big church I've been to since travelling began. The priest was Vietnamese (I think), but spoke English, so that was also really nice for me! Then, I took a motorbike (I did NOT drive, only rode on the back!) to get to the Ho Chi Minh Museum, where I got to look at lots and lots of photos (and propoganda) from the former President. There was also a big series of portraits done of him all made out of buttons--like the ones you sew onto clothes--and sequins. Not sure whose idea that was, but they were really fun to look at! After that, I did some more wandering and browsing around, and now I'm in a cafe hanging out until our bus leaves for Mui Ne at 3pm.

Although we were only here for a short while, I definitley feel like I've gotten a good sense of Ho Chi Minh City/ Saigon, and while it is chaotic, I do think that the overwhelmingness would start to wear off with time. There are plenty of parks to get some respite in and there are lots of little side streets and small shops to duck into and get away from the pollution and traffic.

Mui Ne is a little town on the coast, about 4 hrs. away from here, where there are supposed to be lots of windsurfers and we should be able to "sled" down sanddunes...I'm excited!

On that note, I should get moving - the joy of repacking and hauling my big (and growing) backpack never fades. Ugggh!

Keep in touch - thanks for all the good updates and notes I've been getting from you all! I'm trying to absorb and suck up everything as much as I can, but I miss you all!

Angkor What?

Sorry, I know it's a little cliche for a title...but I couldn't help it :)


Arati and I are now in Siem Reap have spent the last 2 days exploring as many temples as possible in this absolutely incredible place. Before I get into that though, let me back up a little bit to when I last wrote.

After we left Sihanoukville, we took the bus (Mekong Express ROCKS!) back to Phnom Penh. At first, we were both a little angsty about getting back to the hustle, bustle, smog, and smells that encase the city, but we slowly found our groove again and laid out what we wanted to make sure and see during our last time in the city.

Our first afternoon, Friday, we went to see the Royal Palace and the Tuol Sleng Museum--two completely different sights that evoked two completely different reactions.

First, the Royal Palace is really big, impressive, fancy and fun to walk around and explore like a small child. Similar in many ways to the Thai Royal Palace, the compound had beautiful gardens, really intricate pagodas, and lots and lots (and lots) of Buddha statues with incense. One marked difference was the large amount of mirrors everywhere "for good luck." Unfortunately, the mirrors meant that you couldn't easily hide from your haggard, disheveled traveler appearance, BUT it's good to stay humble, right?! The other highlights of the Royal Palace for me were the ornate elephant mounts that the King rides on for different occasions, the "typical Cambodian house" with Cambodian musicians playing traditional instruments and a weaver working on her silk loom - really cool to watch.

After the Royal Palace, we went to the VERY sobering Tuol Sleng Museum. What is now a museum used to be a high school that became a prison and torture center during the Khmer Occupation in the late 70s. It was incredibly eerie and intense to enter, look around, and imagine the atrocities that went on in what used to be classrooms. There were many, many photographs of some of the 2 million people that died under the Khmer Rouge, many which depicted children, women, and babies. There were also many pictures that showed the torture techniques, skulls of victims, etc. and the explanations printed for visitors to read did not "gloss over" anything at all. It definitely shed a new light on Cambodia's (very recent) history, and gave me a lot of insight as to why the country is still so young and in many ways in recovery mode even now. The next day we went to the Killing Fields, where many of the prisoners from this place were taken to be tortured, executed, and dumped into mass graves. Again, really intense, firsthand history lessons. I'm still trying to wrap my head around it all.

After these experiences, we added one more bout with children to our time in Cambodia, and we volunteered at an NGO-run orphanage for street kids. We went for 2 hours to visit, play lots of "monkey ball" and just talk with the kids who live there. There are 29 kids who live there all the time, and the majority are between 10 and 16 years old. There were also 3 very young kids, maybe 3 or 4 years old. The kids were really great, and we had a blast with them. It was also really great to see how well some of the NGOs are succeeding in their endeavors, as these kids had definitely been given access to many opportunities that they wouldn't have otherwise had. For example, they take Japanese, English, and dance lessons on a regular basis, and they had been taken on a group trip to Singapore! While there are certainly millions of other street kids who need to be helped, our time at this orphanage was really inspiring and my heart goes out to them and the people that look after them. I only hope that they continue to thrive and do well...and that I am correct in saying that their orphanage is doing so much good. I really do think that it is.

After a morning at the Killing Fields, some wandering/shopping at the famous "Russian Market" with lots of sub par brand-name clothing, watching fisherman on the banks of the Mekong, and then our nice afternoon with the kids, I went to mass in French to top off my experience in Phnom Penh. There was definitely an upswing at the end, and I left with a pretty good feeling about the city. OH WAIT! I almost forgot! One of the BEST things ever about the city. There are these little areas, usually small parks, or in the Olympic Stadium, where tons of people cluster to exercise.

BUT, the types of exercise are the best part.

Imagine throngs of people doing strange, impromptu aerobics moves (with OR without music), alongside tai chi, badminton, all kinds of calisthenics, soccer, hackey sac, you name it.

Plus, Phnom Penh gets up super early, so all this excitement starts before the sun comes up.

I went for a few runs in these areas, and there was not a moment that I wasn't entertained watching the "athleticism" all around. Some of the guys definitely have more sway in their hips than I do - that's for sure.

Okay, so on to Siem Reap.

We arrived in Siem Reap after a 6 hr. bus ride on Sunday. Since this post is getting a little long, I will conclude today by saying that it has been utterly amazing and breathtaking.

We have biked around and around for hours, and it never gets old or boring. It's not like walking around a huge museum for days at a time when everything starts to blur together...or at least that happens to some of us (obviously me). But here, that hazy feeling doesn't really takeover so easily...at least it hasn't yet - and we've seen a LOT of ancient ruins!

The temples make you feel like you are the size of an ant, and each one is completely unique. Each has its own architecture, carvings, overall shape and size, environment (types of plants, trees, water, etc), and colors. As a result, each one puts you in a totally different mood. One minute you feel like you are in The Secret Garden and the next you are in Indiana Jones or Tomb Raider. Get my drift?

So, we have 2 more days here before we board a VERY long bus all the way to Ho Chi Minh City (almost 12 hrs I think...ugggh), and perhaps I'll give a temple update before we leave. If not, please know that there is NO DOUBT why Angkor Wat is one of the Ancient Wonders of the World, and if you were hesitating about whether or not you should try to see it at some point in your life, stop wondering--it's definitely worth it!

I'm a tea-CHA! Well, sort of...

We have been at the Home of English School in Sihanoukville, Cambodia (on the coast of the Gulf of Thailand) for about one week now, and I thought I'd give a brief update before we leave the area and my thoughts and impressions about this mini-experience begin to dissipate.

We have been really warmly welcomed into the school, and the teachers have let us sit in on and observe (and I've even gotten to teach a few classes!) the teachers and students here. We've also been living in an apartment AT the school, so that has been nice (and cheap!).

By the way, the reason for the title of this post is that, when you enter a classroom here, the students all stand and, in unison, greet you by saying, "Hello, TEACHER!" (Pronounced: TEA-CHA, with lots of emphasis and enthusiasm on the CHA!). Pretty great. Not to mention, you feel like a little bit of a celebrity, which never hurts...don't worry, I won't let it get to my head.

So, overall, everyone has been so gracious, welcoming, and forthcoming, and I will definitely not forget this part of our Cambodian experience. It has been a nice change of pace to really get to do something hands-on with the community and to meet some people on a very different level. The students are a little shy about speaking, but (especially the young ones) are a lot of fun to be around and very eager to do their best and get their work done well. The teachers use a lot of games, interactive activities, and recitation to help the students learn English, and overall, I'd say good things are happening. Also, the teachers are very interested and eager to hear about how they are doing, how they can improve, and how American teachers teach. It's been fun to share stories and to compare. A little weird to be in a classroom again too!

Other than our school experience, we did get to the beach here for a few hours as well, and it is another gem of a beach. We certainly have seen some diverse and beautiful coastlines on this trip. The water was VERY warm in the Gulf, and the sand makes a kind of squeak when you walk on it! I also went to the Catholic Church here, and it turns out that it was actually used as a prison during the Khmer occupation...a little eerie. Other than that, we've been pretty busy at our "classes" and nursing a few "bad stomachs" - I think we've had the most food "reactions" in this country so far...boo! (Luckily Arati and I seem to alternate the days we feel a little less than great, so that's good). BUT, we are both feeling good today, and we are going to try and see the coast one more time before we have to say good-bye to Sihanoukville in tomorrow.

Leah Sen Heuy (= Good-Bye in Khmer)
Until next time...