Northern Vietnam has been quite a mixed bag of treats-- we've gone from urban comotion to starry nights on the water to mountain breezes in less than a week.
So, while I know that I have only had a small sampling of the country as a whole, I feel confident in saying that, from the people to the geography and beyond, it is a place with many, many layers.
I will take you from rainy Hue where I left off (by the way, it has been gorgeous weather again now that we have out-travelled the typhoon leftovers, woohoo!):
We took our last night bus (not something I hope to do again soon!) and arrived in Hanoi early Friday morning. We woke up on the bus just in time to see "Dog Meat Street" where there were lots of skinned dogs on display in shop fronts that were going to become dinner...yummmm. NOT. "Good morning Vietnam!" we shouted through the bus window (not really...and sorry for the lame joke, I never can resist).
Anyway, we really liked Hanoi from the outset. It is definitely chaotic, like Saigon was, but there seems to be a little more charm here - lots of little shops, cafes, etc., and there are some parks with lakes and nice greenery right in the center of the mayhem.
So, although we were pretty haggard from the long bus ride, we had a great first impression of Hanoi, and we did our best to explore it on foot for our first day there. One of the highlights at the end of our day was a Water Puppet Show, which is a traditional Vietnamese type of marionette show. Basically, puppets move around a water-covered stage while musicians play traditional instruments to accompany the "drama" that unfolds. There was definitely a lot of comedic relief incorporated into the stories too (like a really old man puppet chasing a sparkly fish puppet around with crazy windmill swim strokes), and Arati and I were cracking up for most of the show.
When planning our North Vietnam "section" of travel, we decided to head for the famous Halong Bay our next day. For a variety of reasons, we decided (a little begrudgingly) to join a package tour for the experience to make things a bit easier and cheaper for ourselves. It definitely worked out, and we met some awesome people, BUT the whole "package tour" thing probably won't get a repeat performance anytime soon...the guides and food left a little bit to be desired : ) BUT Halong Bay itself was awesome.
Halong Bay (Halong = Dragon) is on the North Eastern coast of Vietnam and has about 2,000 limestone islands poking out of the water. The islands come in many quirky shapes and all sizes, and they range from grayish brown rock to all shades of green. There are also some really cool caves that we got to visit with the biggest stalagtites and stalagmites I've ever seen...shout out to Earth Science again!
We stayed on one of the bigger islands, called Cat Ba, for our first night (of 2) at a hotel the trip leader had booked, and, in the morning, we got to visit the island's National Park for a "trek" up a small mountain. The top of this mountain had a VERY precarious structure that had these humungous flying wasp things all around it, but we climbed the rickety ladder, avoided the huge bugs, and got a great view of lush greenery in all directions as a reward. It was a really stunning view. The rest of the day included some beach time and a great (but chilly!) swim to one of the islands from Cat Ba Beach before we reboarded our "junk" (that's what they call the boats you stay on) for our 2nd night at sea.
Sleeping on the boat was really fun, but looking at the stars from the boat's roof was definitely even better. There is nothing like a full starry sky to make your thoughts wander, and our quiet night in the Bay was really peaceful.
It was a good thing we got some sleep because we were woken (not sure if that's a word...) up bright and early for a 7am kayak in the Bay. I felt like I was back at summer camp when the captain knocked on our door and yelled - but the paddling was really fun, and we got to go around some of the fishing houses, floating market boats, and local people who work and live in the Bay all the time. There were even little school kids paddling each other around on large row boats - really cute Vietnamese kids waving at you with a gorgeous natural and serene backdrop - great way to start the day.
Breakfast on the boat consisted of sliced bread, jam, eggs and the sweetest "coffee" you have ever tried and then we motored around the Bay, had one more swim near some little caves and then returned to the harbor to board the bus back to Hanoi. Halong Bay was really memorable overall, but I can't say I wasn't happy to get off the final minibus and escape the constant itinerary that came along with the package deal!
LUCKILY, after we regrouped a little in Hanoi (including some errands, showers, a book exchange, and a really nice, refreshing night run around a big lake in the Old Quarter), we got onto the night train for Sapa, and it was AWESOME. This was by far our best overnight transportation experience yet. The cabin we were in had 2 bunks, and the beds and comforters were nicer than those in 80% of the hostels and hotels we've stayed in. Plus, we shared our cabin with a Vietnamese couple who was really sweet and who kept to themselves, which gave us a nice breather from all the backpackers (not that we don't like them, just because there is a lot more chit chat involved in those scenes). I slept like a baby until the 5am wake-up call, and I'm thoroughly looking forward to our return voyage on the same train Thursday night - no joke.
Sapa (the town we're now in) has been really refreshing and calming as well. It is in the Highlands of Northern Vietnam, and it is definitely a place not to be missed. The terraced hills, gorgeous green mountains, and fresh air are incredible. While we've seen several hill towns in different areas, Sapa definitely has a different feeling from the others and its unique qualities will make it stick in my mind for a long time. I'm not sure I can really convey the vibe here, but I'll try: Imagine being up in the Alps (or in the Sound of Music hills) and then add Vietnamese hill tribe people (H'mong) with big cylinder basket backpacks, really windy roads and staircases, markets with fresh produce in little alleys, bright stitched fabrics, and wild pigs. Got it?!
Speaking of the H'mong--these hill tribe women are impossible not to smile at. First of all, they are all really tiny, some of them have to be under 4 feet tall, and they are all decked out in clothes made with the brightest colors, weaving and loud patterns you can imagine. Plus, they have handmade leg warmers, tons of fabric bags and pouches hanging all over them, and large silver hoops and assorted jewelry on at all times. Those of them who are right in Sapa town will follow you and talk to you for as long as you'll let them, and they all have amazing handicrafts to try and convince you to buy (I did cave and get some awesome earrings for about 20,000 dong and a really bright woven purse for about 70,000 dong - the money here is still so crazy!).
After checking into Sapa's Queen Hotel, which has an AMAZING view from our window of the terraced hills and mountains, we randomly met up with some Halong Bay friends (there are perks to doing group tours!). Together we had a hearty breakfast, went to a little craft market in town, and then ventured into the Cat Cat Village, where many of the H'mong people live.
As we made the very steep descent into the village, we got invited into an older couple's wooden house on the side of the road, and were treated to some liquor made from corn. It was STRONG! Luckily Ben, our Norwegian friend from before, took one for the team and helped the rest of us girls out when we couldn't finish our drinks. Thanks, Ben.
The rest of our walk was very hilly and included LOTS of pigs, chickens, cows, handicraft shops, and wonderful wind and natural beauty. There were even a few wild boar sightings - GO CHOATE! There was also a really pretty waterfall at the very bottom of the hill, and we got some serious photo ops in before we had to tackle the ascent back up to get out of the village. All in all it was a pretty full morning/afteroon, especially after our early start, and we were more than ready for a good meal and relaxing by the end. And some time to catch up on the good old blog!
Tomorrow, Christina, Ben and I are going to tackle Fansipan, Vietnam's highest peak. I'm so excited! At 3,143 meters (about 10,312 feet), it is called the "Roof of Indochina" - and we're planning to do it in one day (because we don't have warm enough gear to brave a night out there). We are hoping to reach the top and return in about 10 hours or so with our guide who we will meet at 5 am tomorrow morning - WISH US LUCK!
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