Well I didn't find pumpkin pie, but I did have some awesome Thanksgiving chocolate cake in Pai...I'll take that!
Since the drive back south from Pai to Chiang Mai, it seems like so much has already happened. First, I had to say goodbye to Arati, which was a little rough. However, then I was cheered up quickly as I made my way to Spicythai Backpackers, which is an awesome hostel, and one of the few "true" hostels I've stayed in. It's a converted governor's mansion in a secluded little neighborhood area near Chiang Mai University. I say it's a "true" hostel because, besides the fact that it's a house, I had to do things like check-out a breakfast set, linens, etc. and read the house "rules" before signing in. The ambience here is great - big, airy bedrooms have been converted into dorms, and there is an actual dining room to eat breakfast in, a really comfy living room with a big TV and lots of movies, and hammocks in the yard to relax in. Not to mention there are awesome people who work here and some really friendly young travelers staying here to hang out with. It was nice to have good company on my first evening without my travel buddy!
This place also kind of reminds me of the movie L'auberge espagnole...which I love.
Then, this morning, there was a huge ceremony (only held once or twice each year here) to give Alms to 10,000 Monks. It was something I had heard about during our visit last week to Chiang Mai, and I chose this hostel partly for its location right near by. I'm so glad I got to experience the whole thing - it was definitely memorable.
Last night, after I had settled in, the hostel leaders took a big group of us to the grocery store to "stock up" on packaged goods (like ramen, cookies, crackers, etc.) to hand out to the monks. Then, this morning, we all set our alarms for 6am, ate some bananas, and walked as a group to the main street that had been shut down especially for the event.
There were red carpets running the length of the street for a few miles, and, after (several) blessings in Thai were given over the loudspeaker, monks of all ages in their orange robes (hence the "sea of orange") walked through the crowds lining the street to collect the alms offerings in their personal bowls. The Thai people brought everything from canned salmon to milk or juice boxes to chocolate wafers to lotus flowers to money...and the monks collected it all. As their bowls filled, they transferred the goods to large black garbage bags, which were set up along the way. After the ceremony, the food and goods will be distributed to monasteries all over the country as well as to places like orphanages.
It was really fortunate that I went with the group from my hostel because one of the leaders (like an RA for the place) is from here, and he was able to explain a lot to me about both this particular ceremony and about monasticism in Thailand in general.
Some interesting facts about monks:
- In Thailand, being a monk is always voluntary/never compulsory
- Most monks join because their family is very poor and the monastery can provide for them (monks collect food every day from the neighborhoods around their temple) as well as provide them with a good education
- In the past, there were some monks who joined to evade the law if they had committed a crime (because previously monks could not be arrested!). Now, monks can be "arrested" by the monk authorities first and then formally detained by the police after being forced or convinced to leave the monastery
- Most monks join around high school age or older, but there are some very young monks as well
- Monks can eat meat because they cannot control what is offered to them, so if someone gives them meat, it is better for them to eat it than to waste it (but they cannot themselves kill other living creatures)
So, after we all handed out the food we had purchased and took lots of pictures (okay, that was mostly just me), it was still only breakfast time, and I was so happy for the free breakfast and coffee and some good conversation with my hostel mates, i.e. a German traveler from Singapore, an American guy and anthropology major from Seattle who just came from Europe, and an Australian from Sydney who had just arrived from Bangkok...lots of fun to start the day.
I did get a little antsy after that, and set out to try and arrange my tickets for the next part of this journey. Since I couldn't book things by myself online because of my foreign credit card, I had to find a travel agent - boo! HOWEVER, while the travel agent proved to be pretty useless, I definitely believe that there was definitely a reason that I ended up in that particular office.
After about 20 minutes of circular conversation with Noi (the very friendly, just not helpful Thai agent), 2 American men walked in and we got to talking. They are visiting from Saudi Arabia where they teach, and they were trying to help me out with my own ticket booking dilemmas. I mentioned that I wanted to volunteer wherever I ended up next (probably the Philippines), and Richard informed me that he was going to meet with a woman in 20 minutes from an orphanage for Burmese (Karen) refugees about related things and that I was more than welcome to join him...can we say fate?!
Long story short, if everything works out, I will be going back up north this week to volunteer in a woman named Te Te's village. I will hopefully be involved in setting up the Christmas celebration that they have each year there a few weeks in advance of the actual holiday. I can't wait for the experience and some holiday cheer!
Soooo, no plane tickets were purchased, BUT I am pretty excited for the upcoming week nonetheless. Things seem to work out if you let them. Patience, patience.
After the eventful morning, I spent the rest of the day just walking around lots and lots to get some energy out and see some of the parks and university grounds, etc. I also got a banana leaf with sticky rice and sweet potato mixed together on the street as well as a coffee banana milkshake, which might have been 2 of the best purchases I've made in Thailand!
Tomorrow I'm hoping to rent a bike and do some more exploring beyond my walking limits. Stay in touch, I miss you all!!
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Can I find Pie...in Pai?!
First of all, Happy Thanksgiving!
I am now in little town in the mountains of Northern Thailand called Pai (sounds like Pie), and I am hoping that they have some confections of the pumpkin or apple variety around here somewhere.
Also, sorry for the brief hiatus in my blog. After getting to Chiang Mai from Laos, I had a bit of a stomach issue that kept me pretty uncomfortable for a while (basically it seemed like a knife thrower had taken up residence in my gut). Things are much better now, though, the first thing that I am VERY thankful for on this Thanksgiving!
So, where to begin?
Chiang Mai is Thailand's 2nd largest city after Bangkok, and it definitely has more "hustle and bustle" than Arati and I had anticipated. We pictured a little bit more of a Northern hill, lush green, brisk, mountain town, but, alas, it was pretty hot with lots and lots or motorbikes. However, the old city is walled off and separated a little bit from the chaos and hubbub by a moat. Yes, a moat.
We found a hostel inside the old city and, after my stomach acquiesced, I was able to let the city slowly grow on me as I discovered some of its small windy side streets and lots of unique and beautiful temples. The Lanna people of Burma and Northern Thailand influenced much of the architecture in Chiang Mai, making many of the temples look very distinct from the others we saw in and around Bangkok.
My favorite temple, called Wat Phantao, is crafted out of dark brown wood and has really intricate carvings and wood and gold detailing all over it. Also, it had a pagoda in the back made out of bamboo - really cool! Also, there were tons of paper lanterns all around the area, and the feeling was just very friendly and almost like a big group of children had decorated the grounds for a celebration. Very festive, cheerful and inviting.
Other than visiting the temples and wandering along the windy streets, here are some other Chiang Mai highlights:
1. I visited the malaria center (not because I was sick, just because I'm a big nerd and wanted to see it!)
2. Arati and I went to a tribal museum that taught us about the various hill tribes of Northern Thailand
3. We shopped in the HUGE Night Bazaar with everything from fake Birkenstocks to authentic blankets from the hills that could keep ANYONE warm!
4. I went to mass in Thai at the Sacred Heart Cathedral...the really nice girls next to me kept trying to share their hymn books with me...um, yeah, I can't read Thai...
5. We took some walks along the Ping River (as well as around the moat!)
6. We went for a ride in one of the easy to spot "red truck taxis" (basically converted pickups with sideways benches and roofs) up to a really gorgeous temple, Doi Suthep, which is at the top of a big hill overlooking the city. When we got up there, it started to mist, and the effect was really stunning (albeit a little chilly! There was definitely an added mystical aura from the fog and clouds.
Sundays in Chiang Mai are also a big treat, as some of the main streets in the center are closed off and a huge Sunday Market is laid out along the cobblestone streets. Food stalls cluster around the temples, and street performers do everything from sing to dance to play interesting instruments you've never seen before. I ate an awesome banana waffle (they had pumpkin and red bean flavors too, but I thought that might wreck havoc on my tender tummy), and tried to breathe in all the good energy on the streets. Lots of fun.
After our Sunday night in Pai, Arati and I boarded a minibus to drive the 3-4 hours up to the town of Pai. The ride was very windy, but we survived, and I'm so glad we did!
Pai is a self-proclaimed "hippie" town, and there are happy people and "hippies" of every age and ethnicity. There is definitely a very laid back vibe here, and there are coffee shops on every corner (and many in between). Some places you'll see if you come to Pai: the Flour Power Bakery, several bars with live music and some with campfires to sit around, bamboo tattoo shops(that's what the needle is made of - Dad, what tattoo should I get? kidding...), bamboo bungalows, pita and falafel shops, knit caps, guitars, dreadlocks, Volkswagen buses. You know, the usual "hippie" stuff, but you're in Thailand, so that makes it even more rad...right?!
It is really relaxing here, and it's been really nice to breathe the fresh mountain air and escape from the city again. We have seen some really nice waterfalls, and gone on some great walks and exploring adventures. Also, yesterday, I got up around 5am to join a group trip up to Mae Hong Son, which is a town right on the Burmese border. The trip made several stops along the way at some great attractions, including some awesome camping spots and villages where I got to see how so many different people live and work.
One of the most interesting and notable hill tribes, the Karen, are also called the Longnecks because the women wear big gold rings to elongate their necks. They also wear the rings on their legs and many wear large earrings that stretch out their lobes. Also called the Padaung, they are refugees from Burma who have been settling in Thailand for over 12 years due to political unrest in their own country. They can't work legally in Thailand, so they must rely on donations and the money that they get from selling their crafts to tourists and other residents.
At first, I was worried that visiting the Karen women would feel like exploitation (just lots of white people snapping pictures in their faces), but it really wasn't like that for the most part, and seeing the weaving and other crafts that these women produce was really interesting and motivating. They all seemed very peaceful, productive, and content, and, while I didn't get to speak to any of them personally about their thoughts due to language barriers, I didn't get the feeling that they felt exploited. However, I do think that these women need a lot more than people taking their pictures and buying their scarves...it got me thinking, that's for sure.
Well, I think that's a big dose of blogging for now, but I will write some more on Pai later (hopefully after some Thanksgiving grub!). We are heading back to Chiang Mai tomorrow morning before I have to say my tearful good bye to Arati, who is heading south toward Phuket without me, while I debate about where I will go next.
In closing, please know that I am so thankful for all of this adventuring, exploring and learning, and I am also so thankful for all the wonderful people in my life.
Happy Thanksgiving 2009!
I am now in little town in the mountains of Northern Thailand called Pai (sounds like Pie), and I am hoping that they have some confections of the pumpkin or apple variety around here somewhere.
Also, sorry for the brief hiatus in my blog. After getting to Chiang Mai from Laos, I had a bit of a stomach issue that kept me pretty uncomfortable for a while (basically it seemed like a knife thrower had taken up residence in my gut). Things are much better now, though, the first thing that I am VERY thankful for on this Thanksgiving!
So, where to begin?
Chiang Mai is Thailand's 2nd largest city after Bangkok, and it definitely has more "hustle and bustle" than Arati and I had anticipated. We pictured a little bit more of a Northern hill, lush green, brisk, mountain town, but, alas, it was pretty hot with lots and lots or motorbikes. However, the old city is walled off and separated a little bit from the chaos and hubbub by a moat. Yes, a moat.
We found a hostel inside the old city and, after my stomach acquiesced, I was able to let the city slowly grow on me as I discovered some of its small windy side streets and lots of unique and beautiful temples. The Lanna people of Burma and Northern Thailand influenced much of the architecture in Chiang Mai, making many of the temples look very distinct from the others we saw in and around Bangkok.
My favorite temple, called Wat Phantao, is crafted out of dark brown wood and has really intricate carvings and wood and gold detailing all over it. Also, it had a pagoda in the back made out of bamboo - really cool! Also, there were tons of paper lanterns all around the area, and the feeling was just very friendly and almost like a big group of children had decorated the grounds for a celebration. Very festive, cheerful and inviting.
Other than visiting the temples and wandering along the windy streets, here are some other Chiang Mai highlights:
1. I visited the malaria center (not because I was sick, just because I'm a big nerd and wanted to see it!)
2. Arati and I went to a tribal museum that taught us about the various hill tribes of Northern Thailand
3. We shopped in the HUGE Night Bazaar with everything from fake Birkenstocks to authentic blankets from the hills that could keep ANYONE warm!
4. I went to mass in Thai at the Sacred Heart Cathedral...the really nice girls next to me kept trying to share their hymn books with me...um, yeah, I can't read Thai...
5. We took some walks along the Ping River (as well as around the moat!)
6. We went for a ride in one of the easy to spot "red truck taxis" (basically converted pickups with sideways benches and roofs) up to a really gorgeous temple, Doi Suthep, which is at the top of a big hill overlooking the city. When we got up there, it started to mist, and the effect was really stunning (albeit a little chilly! There was definitely an added mystical aura from the fog and clouds.
Sundays in Chiang Mai are also a big treat, as some of the main streets in the center are closed off and a huge Sunday Market is laid out along the cobblestone streets. Food stalls cluster around the temples, and street performers do everything from sing to dance to play interesting instruments you've never seen before. I ate an awesome banana waffle (they had pumpkin and red bean flavors too, but I thought that might wreck havoc on my tender tummy), and tried to breathe in all the good energy on the streets. Lots of fun.
After our Sunday night in Pai, Arati and I boarded a minibus to drive the 3-4 hours up to the town of Pai. The ride was very windy, but we survived, and I'm so glad we did!
Pai is a self-proclaimed "hippie" town, and there are happy people and "hippies" of every age and ethnicity. There is definitely a very laid back vibe here, and there are coffee shops on every corner (and many in between). Some places you'll see if you come to Pai: the Flour Power Bakery, several bars with live music and some with campfires to sit around, bamboo tattoo shops(that's what the needle is made of - Dad, what tattoo should I get? kidding...), bamboo bungalows, pita and falafel shops, knit caps, guitars, dreadlocks, Volkswagen buses. You know, the usual "hippie" stuff, but you're in Thailand, so that makes it even more rad...right?!
It is really relaxing here, and it's been really nice to breathe the fresh mountain air and escape from the city again. We have seen some really nice waterfalls, and gone on some great walks and exploring adventures. Also, yesterday, I got up around 5am to join a group trip up to Mae Hong Son, which is a town right on the Burmese border. The trip made several stops along the way at some great attractions, including some awesome camping spots and villages where I got to see how so many different people live and work.
One of the most interesting and notable hill tribes, the Karen, are also called the Longnecks because the women wear big gold rings to elongate their necks. They also wear the rings on their legs and many wear large earrings that stretch out their lobes. Also called the Padaung, they are refugees from Burma who have been settling in Thailand for over 12 years due to political unrest in their own country. They can't work legally in Thailand, so they must rely on donations and the money that they get from selling their crafts to tourists and other residents.
At first, I was worried that visiting the Karen women would feel like exploitation (just lots of white people snapping pictures in their faces), but it really wasn't like that for the most part, and seeing the weaving and other crafts that these women produce was really interesting and motivating. They all seemed very peaceful, productive, and content, and, while I didn't get to speak to any of them personally about their thoughts due to language barriers, I didn't get the feeling that they felt exploited. However, I do think that these women need a lot more than people taking their pictures and buying their scarves...it got me thinking, that's for sure.
Well, I think that's a big dose of blogging for now, but I will write some more on Pai later (hopefully after some Thanksgiving grub!). We are heading back to Chiang Mai tomorrow morning before I have to say my tearful good bye to Arati, who is heading south toward Phuket without me, while I debate about where I will go next.
In closing, please know that I am so thankful for all of this adventuring, exploring and learning, and I am also so thankful for all the wonderful people in my life.
Happy Thanksgiving 2009!
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Sawadee! and Thailand Round 2
Laos was absolutely awesome, and I'm still recovering a little bit from having to say good-bye this morning.
Arati and I just finished our travel "loop," and we landed back in Thailand today. We are now in the (highly acclaimed!) Northern city of Chiang Mai.
I haven't had a chance to write about our time in Laos yet (mostly because the internet was very expensive and I had a little bit of a camera/photo catastrophe the one time I did try to use it - don't worry, it was averted & the pictures were saved!), but Laos is absolutely going to hold a special place in my heart for a long time. I just might have to go back...soon, maybe?!
For our brief time in Laos (just 5 days), we remained in the city of Luang Prabang. Since we had done so much physical traveling while in Vietnam, we wanted to relax a little bit, and we had only heard bad things about the road travel in Laos. It worked out wonderfully, and I'm SO glad we got to take our time there and really soak up the magical town of Luang Prabang.
With arguably the cutest kids in South East Asia, constant smiles and greetings (Sawadee = hello), gorgeous natural beauty and architecture, great crafts everywhere, amazing shops and cafes, and some of the most peaceful and kind people I have ever encountered - what's not to love? In addition, the food was amazing and the there was not an ounce of stress in the air.
I truly don't even know where to begin, but maybe a list of highlights would be the best:
- 1 day of kayaking on a river, including eating rice/grilled fish on a stick (scales and eyeball included)/veggies from a local stand for lunch while playing in the sand with local Laotian kids
- getting stopped mid-morning run to join the line of women handing out rice to the monks as they collect their food
- eating at the vegetarian stand near the night market for only 5,000 kip a plate (less than $1); it was truly some of the most delicious food ever (especially the pumpkin!)
- going to a wonderful cafe called JoMa where they had pumpkin pie with WHIPPED CREAM and huge mugs of tea! (The owner came from Pennsylvania...figures) – it totally made my day
- running over one of the most rickety wooden bridges ever as the sun came up over the big golden wat on the hill
- crossing a (different) rickety wooden bridge to get to the artisan village with beautiful silk workshops and scarves galore
- playing with all of the adorable children at every opportunity
- hiking around a huge and beautiful waterfall until the rain stopped and then having a picnic lunch of a "Lao-style" sandwich stuffed with cheese, chicken and tons of veggies and waterfall mist
- visiting a photography exhibition called "Floating Buddha" with gorgeous photos of young monks on a retreat in the wilderness learning how to meditate (the photographer's name is Berger if you want to look him up)
- not getting hassled about anything: no pushy tuk-tuk drivers, no annoying tour guides, no pesky shop owners = bliss
- going to the night market FULL of awesome embroidered items, paper lanterns, and some of the sweetest (again, NON-pushy) people ever (we went many times!)
- practicing English and “teaching some grammar” to a Laotian student, Porher, at a place called “Big Brother Mouse” where foreigners can come from 9-11am every day to volunteer
- saying Sabadee to anyone and everyone
So, as you can see, I had a great time in Laos and, even though I only saw one town, I will forever have a wonderful impression of this country. It was very hard to get on the plane this morning and wave good-bye, but I really do think that I'll be back again. It's the type of place that you could visit at any age and take away from it whatever you are looking for. There is serenity and there is culture; there is peacefulness and there is spice.
And there is more beauty in the land and people than I could ever adequately describe.
So, now we are in Chiang Mai for an undetermined amount of time. I might try to find some work/volunteer work here, or I might stay here until I can establish something elsewhere in that realm. But for now, we found a place to stay and just had some ice cream, so one thing at a time.
On that note, I will leave you with a quote that I really liked from the monk photo exhibition that speaks to the need for simplicity in life
“Nothing whatsoever shall be clung to”
Think about it…
Arati and I just finished our travel "loop," and we landed back in Thailand today. We are now in the (highly acclaimed!) Northern city of Chiang Mai.
I haven't had a chance to write about our time in Laos yet (mostly because the internet was very expensive and I had a little bit of a camera/photo catastrophe the one time I did try to use it - don't worry, it was averted & the pictures were saved!), but Laos is absolutely going to hold a special place in my heart for a long time. I just might have to go back...soon, maybe?!
For our brief time in Laos (just 5 days), we remained in the city of Luang Prabang. Since we had done so much physical traveling while in Vietnam, we wanted to relax a little bit, and we had only heard bad things about the road travel in Laos. It worked out wonderfully, and I'm SO glad we got to take our time there and really soak up the magical town of Luang Prabang.
With arguably the cutest kids in South East Asia, constant smiles and greetings (Sawadee = hello), gorgeous natural beauty and architecture, great crafts everywhere, amazing shops and cafes, and some of the most peaceful and kind people I have ever encountered - what's not to love? In addition, the food was amazing and the there was not an ounce of stress in the air.
I truly don't even know where to begin, but maybe a list of highlights would be the best:
- 1 day of kayaking on a river, including eating rice/grilled fish on a stick (scales and eyeball included)/veggies from a local stand for lunch while playing in the sand with local Laotian kids
- getting stopped mid-morning run to join the line of women handing out rice to the monks as they collect their food
- eating at the vegetarian stand near the night market for only 5,000 kip a plate (less than $1); it was truly some of the most delicious food ever (especially the pumpkin!)
- going to a wonderful cafe called JoMa where they had pumpkin pie with WHIPPED CREAM and huge mugs of tea! (The owner came from Pennsylvania...figures) – it totally made my day
- running over one of the most rickety wooden bridges ever as the sun came up over the big golden wat on the hill
- crossing a (different) rickety wooden bridge to get to the artisan village with beautiful silk workshops and scarves galore
- playing with all of the adorable children at every opportunity
- hiking around a huge and beautiful waterfall until the rain stopped and then having a picnic lunch of a "Lao-style" sandwich stuffed with cheese, chicken and tons of veggies and waterfall mist
- visiting a photography exhibition called "Floating Buddha" with gorgeous photos of young monks on a retreat in the wilderness learning how to meditate (the photographer's name is Berger if you want to look him up)
- not getting hassled about anything: no pushy tuk-tuk drivers, no annoying tour guides, no pesky shop owners = bliss
- going to the night market FULL of awesome embroidered items, paper lanterns, and some of the sweetest (again, NON-pushy) people ever (we went many times!)
- practicing English and “teaching some grammar” to a Laotian student, Porher, at a place called “Big Brother Mouse” where foreigners can come from 9-11am every day to volunteer
- saying Sabadee to anyone and everyone
So, as you can see, I had a great time in Laos and, even though I only saw one town, I will forever have a wonderful impression of this country. It was very hard to get on the plane this morning and wave good-bye, but I really do think that I'll be back again. It's the type of place that you could visit at any age and take away from it whatever you are looking for. There is serenity and there is culture; there is peacefulness and there is spice.
And there is more beauty in the land and people than I could ever adequately describe.
So, now we are in Chiang Mai for an undetermined amount of time. I might try to find some work/volunteer work here, or I might stay here until I can establish something elsewhere in that realm. But for now, we found a place to stay and just had some ice cream, so one thing at a time.
On that note, I will leave you with a quote that I really liked from the monk photo exhibition that speaks to the need for simplicity in life
“Nothing whatsoever shall be clung to”
Think about it…
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
We climbed Fansipan (or "Fancy Pants" if you prefer)
We made it to the summit of the tallest mountain in Vietnam - in one day! My BUDDHA! (as our guide, Cuong, would say :)
Starting in the dark at 5am, Christina, Ben and I chased our fearless leader Cuong, who scampered up the mountain at top speed. Not too many people are willing to lead people up and back in a single day, but Cuong definitely had PLENTY of energy to do the job.
All in all, it was an 11 hour (pretty grueling) climb up and back, but there were some of the most incredible views along the way, and the physical challenge was so exhilerating. Once we finally got to the top, it was very chilly and windy, but we took enough time to snap lots of pictures up in the clouds that swirled around and sped by us...so cool.
I will be sleeping like a baby tonight...and walking like a Grandma tomorrow.
Starting in the dark at 5am, Christina, Ben and I chased our fearless leader Cuong, who scampered up the mountain at top speed. Not too many people are willing to lead people up and back in a single day, but Cuong definitely had PLENTY of energy to do the job.
All in all, it was an 11 hour (pretty grueling) climb up and back, but there were some of the most incredible views along the way, and the physical challenge was so exhilerating. Once we finally got to the top, it was very chilly and windy, but we took enough time to snap lots of pictures up in the clouds that swirled around and sped by us...so cool.
I will be sleeping like a baby tonight...and walking like a Grandma tomorrow.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
The Multi-faceted North (Vietnam cont'd)
Northern Vietnam has been quite a mixed bag of treats-- we've gone from urban comotion to starry nights on the water to mountain breezes in less than a week.
So, while I know that I have only had a small sampling of the country as a whole, I feel confident in saying that, from the people to the geography and beyond, it is a place with many, many layers.
I will take you from rainy Hue where I left off (by the way, it has been gorgeous weather again now that we have out-travelled the typhoon leftovers, woohoo!):
We took our last night bus (not something I hope to do again soon!) and arrived in Hanoi early Friday morning. We woke up on the bus just in time to see "Dog Meat Street" where there were lots of skinned dogs on display in shop fronts that were going to become dinner...yummmm. NOT. "Good morning Vietnam!" we shouted through the bus window (not really...and sorry for the lame joke, I never can resist).
Anyway, we really liked Hanoi from the outset. It is definitely chaotic, like Saigon was, but there seems to be a little more charm here - lots of little shops, cafes, etc., and there are some parks with lakes and nice greenery right in the center of the mayhem.
So, although we were pretty haggard from the long bus ride, we had a great first impression of Hanoi, and we did our best to explore it on foot for our first day there. One of the highlights at the end of our day was a Water Puppet Show, which is a traditional Vietnamese type of marionette show. Basically, puppets move around a water-covered stage while musicians play traditional instruments to accompany the "drama" that unfolds. There was definitely a lot of comedic relief incorporated into the stories too (like a really old man puppet chasing a sparkly fish puppet around with crazy windmill swim strokes), and Arati and I were cracking up for most of the show.
When planning our North Vietnam "section" of travel, we decided to head for the famous Halong Bay our next day. For a variety of reasons, we decided (a little begrudgingly) to join a package tour for the experience to make things a bit easier and cheaper for ourselves. It definitely worked out, and we met some awesome people, BUT the whole "package tour" thing probably won't get a repeat performance anytime soon...the guides and food left a little bit to be desired : ) BUT Halong Bay itself was awesome.
Halong Bay (Halong = Dragon) is on the North Eastern coast of Vietnam and has about 2,000 limestone islands poking out of the water. The islands come in many quirky shapes and all sizes, and they range from grayish brown rock to all shades of green. There are also some really cool caves that we got to visit with the biggest stalagtites and stalagmites I've ever seen...shout out to Earth Science again!
We stayed on one of the bigger islands, called Cat Ba, for our first night (of 2) at a hotel the trip leader had booked, and, in the morning, we got to visit the island's National Park for a "trek" up a small mountain. The top of this mountain had a VERY precarious structure that had these humungous flying wasp things all around it, but we climbed the rickety ladder, avoided the huge bugs, and got a great view of lush greenery in all directions as a reward. It was a really stunning view. The rest of the day included some beach time and a great (but chilly!) swim to one of the islands from Cat Ba Beach before we reboarded our "junk" (that's what they call the boats you stay on) for our 2nd night at sea.
Sleeping on the boat was really fun, but looking at the stars from the boat's roof was definitely even better. There is nothing like a full starry sky to make your thoughts wander, and our quiet night in the Bay was really peaceful.
It was a good thing we got some sleep because we were woken (not sure if that's a word...) up bright and early for a 7am kayak in the Bay. I felt like I was back at summer camp when the captain knocked on our door and yelled - but the paddling was really fun, and we got to go around some of the fishing houses, floating market boats, and local people who work and live in the Bay all the time. There were even little school kids paddling each other around on large row boats - really cute Vietnamese kids waving at you with a gorgeous natural and serene backdrop - great way to start the day.
Breakfast on the boat consisted of sliced bread, jam, eggs and the sweetest "coffee" you have ever tried and then we motored around the Bay, had one more swim near some little caves and then returned to the harbor to board the bus back to Hanoi. Halong Bay was really memorable overall, but I can't say I wasn't happy to get off the final minibus and escape the constant itinerary that came along with the package deal!
LUCKILY, after we regrouped a little in Hanoi (including some errands, showers, a book exchange, and a really nice, refreshing night run around a big lake in the Old Quarter), we got onto the night train for Sapa, and it was AWESOME. This was by far our best overnight transportation experience yet. The cabin we were in had 2 bunks, and the beds and comforters were nicer than those in 80% of the hostels and hotels we've stayed in. Plus, we shared our cabin with a Vietnamese couple who was really sweet and who kept to themselves, which gave us a nice breather from all the backpackers (not that we don't like them, just because there is a lot more chit chat involved in those scenes). I slept like a baby until the 5am wake-up call, and I'm thoroughly looking forward to our return voyage on the same train Thursday night - no joke.
Sapa (the town we're now in) has been really refreshing and calming as well. It is in the Highlands of Northern Vietnam, and it is definitely a place not to be missed. The terraced hills, gorgeous green mountains, and fresh air are incredible. While we've seen several hill towns in different areas, Sapa definitely has a different feeling from the others and its unique qualities will make it stick in my mind for a long time. I'm not sure I can really convey the vibe here, but I'll try: Imagine being up in the Alps (or in the Sound of Music hills) and then add Vietnamese hill tribe people (H'mong) with big cylinder basket backpacks, really windy roads and staircases, markets with fresh produce in little alleys, bright stitched fabrics, and wild pigs. Got it?!
Speaking of the H'mong--these hill tribe women are impossible not to smile at. First of all, they are all really tiny, some of them have to be under 4 feet tall, and they are all decked out in clothes made with the brightest colors, weaving and loud patterns you can imagine. Plus, they have handmade leg warmers, tons of fabric bags and pouches hanging all over them, and large silver hoops and assorted jewelry on at all times. Those of them who are right in Sapa town will follow you and talk to you for as long as you'll let them, and they all have amazing handicrafts to try and convince you to buy (I did cave and get some awesome earrings for about 20,000 dong and a really bright woven purse for about 70,000 dong - the money here is still so crazy!).
After checking into Sapa's Queen Hotel, which has an AMAZING view from our window of the terraced hills and mountains, we randomly met up with some Halong Bay friends (there are perks to doing group tours!). Together we had a hearty breakfast, went to a little craft market in town, and then ventured into the Cat Cat Village, where many of the H'mong people live.
As we made the very steep descent into the village, we got invited into an older couple's wooden house on the side of the road, and were treated to some liquor made from corn. It was STRONG! Luckily Ben, our Norwegian friend from before, took one for the team and helped the rest of us girls out when we couldn't finish our drinks. Thanks, Ben.
The rest of our walk was very hilly and included LOTS of pigs, chickens, cows, handicraft shops, and wonderful wind and natural beauty. There were even a few wild boar sightings - GO CHOATE! There was also a really pretty waterfall at the very bottom of the hill, and we got some serious photo ops in before we had to tackle the ascent back up to get out of the village. All in all it was a pretty full morning/afteroon, especially after our early start, and we were more than ready for a good meal and relaxing by the end. And some time to catch up on the good old blog!
Tomorrow, Christina, Ben and I are going to tackle Fansipan, Vietnam's highest peak. I'm so excited! At 3,143 meters (about 10,312 feet), it is called the "Roof of Indochina" - and we're planning to do it in one day (because we don't have warm enough gear to brave a night out there). We are hoping to reach the top and return in about 10 hours or so with our guide who we will meet at 5 am tomorrow morning - WISH US LUCK!
So, while I know that I have only had a small sampling of the country as a whole, I feel confident in saying that, from the people to the geography and beyond, it is a place with many, many layers.
I will take you from rainy Hue where I left off (by the way, it has been gorgeous weather again now that we have out-travelled the typhoon leftovers, woohoo!):
We took our last night bus (not something I hope to do again soon!) and arrived in Hanoi early Friday morning. We woke up on the bus just in time to see "Dog Meat Street" where there were lots of skinned dogs on display in shop fronts that were going to become dinner...yummmm. NOT. "Good morning Vietnam!" we shouted through the bus window (not really...and sorry for the lame joke, I never can resist).
Anyway, we really liked Hanoi from the outset. It is definitely chaotic, like Saigon was, but there seems to be a little more charm here - lots of little shops, cafes, etc., and there are some parks with lakes and nice greenery right in the center of the mayhem.
So, although we were pretty haggard from the long bus ride, we had a great first impression of Hanoi, and we did our best to explore it on foot for our first day there. One of the highlights at the end of our day was a Water Puppet Show, which is a traditional Vietnamese type of marionette show. Basically, puppets move around a water-covered stage while musicians play traditional instruments to accompany the "drama" that unfolds. There was definitely a lot of comedic relief incorporated into the stories too (like a really old man puppet chasing a sparkly fish puppet around with crazy windmill swim strokes), and Arati and I were cracking up for most of the show.
When planning our North Vietnam "section" of travel, we decided to head for the famous Halong Bay our next day. For a variety of reasons, we decided (a little begrudgingly) to join a package tour for the experience to make things a bit easier and cheaper for ourselves. It definitely worked out, and we met some awesome people, BUT the whole "package tour" thing probably won't get a repeat performance anytime soon...the guides and food left a little bit to be desired : ) BUT Halong Bay itself was awesome.
Halong Bay (Halong = Dragon) is on the North Eastern coast of Vietnam and has about 2,000 limestone islands poking out of the water. The islands come in many quirky shapes and all sizes, and they range from grayish brown rock to all shades of green. There are also some really cool caves that we got to visit with the biggest stalagtites and stalagmites I've ever seen...shout out to Earth Science again!
We stayed on one of the bigger islands, called Cat Ba, for our first night (of 2) at a hotel the trip leader had booked, and, in the morning, we got to visit the island's National Park for a "trek" up a small mountain. The top of this mountain had a VERY precarious structure that had these humungous flying wasp things all around it, but we climbed the rickety ladder, avoided the huge bugs, and got a great view of lush greenery in all directions as a reward. It was a really stunning view. The rest of the day included some beach time and a great (but chilly!) swim to one of the islands from Cat Ba Beach before we reboarded our "junk" (that's what they call the boats you stay on) for our 2nd night at sea.
Sleeping on the boat was really fun, but looking at the stars from the boat's roof was definitely even better. There is nothing like a full starry sky to make your thoughts wander, and our quiet night in the Bay was really peaceful.
It was a good thing we got some sleep because we were woken (not sure if that's a word...) up bright and early for a 7am kayak in the Bay. I felt like I was back at summer camp when the captain knocked on our door and yelled - but the paddling was really fun, and we got to go around some of the fishing houses, floating market boats, and local people who work and live in the Bay all the time. There were even little school kids paddling each other around on large row boats - really cute Vietnamese kids waving at you with a gorgeous natural and serene backdrop - great way to start the day.
Breakfast on the boat consisted of sliced bread, jam, eggs and the sweetest "coffee" you have ever tried and then we motored around the Bay, had one more swim near some little caves and then returned to the harbor to board the bus back to Hanoi. Halong Bay was really memorable overall, but I can't say I wasn't happy to get off the final minibus and escape the constant itinerary that came along with the package deal!
LUCKILY, after we regrouped a little in Hanoi (including some errands, showers, a book exchange, and a really nice, refreshing night run around a big lake in the Old Quarter), we got onto the night train for Sapa, and it was AWESOME. This was by far our best overnight transportation experience yet. The cabin we were in had 2 bunks, and the beds and comforters were nicer than those in 80% of the hostels and hotels we've stayed in. Plus, we shared our cabin with a Vietnamese couple who was really sweet and who kept to themselves, which gave us a nice breather from all the backpackers (not that we don't like them, just because there is a lot more chit chat involved in those scenes). I slept like a baby until the 5am wake-up call, and I'm thoroughly looking forward to our return voyage on the same train Thursday night - no joke.
Sapa (the town we're now in) has been really refreshing and calming as well. It is in the Highlands of Northern Vietnam, and it is definitely a place not to be missed. The terraced hills, gorgeous green mountains, and fresh air are incredible. While we've seen several hill towns in different areas, Sapa definitely has a different feeling from the others and its unique qualities will make it stick in my mind for a long time. I'm not sure I can really convey the vibe here, but I'll try: Imagine being up in the Alps (or in the Sound of Music hills) and then add Vietnamese hill tribe people (H'mong) with big cylinder basket backpacks, really windy roads and staircases, markets with fresh produce in little alleys, bright stitched fabrics, and wild pigs. Got it?!
Speaking of the H'mong--these hill tribe women are impossible not to smile at. First of all, they are all really tiny, some of them have to be under 4 feet tall, and they are all decked out in clothes made with the brightest colors, weaving and loud patterns you can imagine. Plus, they have handmade leg warmers, tons of fabric bags and pouches hanging all over them, and large silver hoops and assorted jewelry on at all times. Those of them who are right in Sapa town will follow you and talk to you for as long as you'll let them, and they all have amazing handicrafts to try and convince you to buy (I did cave and get some awesome earrings for about 20,000 dong and a really bright woven purse for about 70,000 dong - the money here is still so crazy!).
After checking into Sapa's Queen Hotel, which has an AMAZING view from our window of the terraced hills and mountains, we randomly met up with some Halong Bay friends (there are perks to doing group tours!). Together we had a hearty breakfast, went to a little craft market in town, and then ventured into the Cat Cat Village, where many of the H'mong people live.
As we made the very steep descent into the village, we got invited into an older couple's wooden house on the side of the road, and were treated to some liquor made from corn. It was STRONG! Luckily Ben, our Norwegian friend from before, took one for the team and helped the rest of us girls out when we couldn't finish our drinks. Thanks, Ben.
The rest of our walk was very hilly and included LOTS of pigs, chickens, cows, handicraft shops, and wonderful wind and natural beauty. There were even a few wild boar sightings - GO CHOATE! There was also a really pretty waterfall at the very bottom of the hill, and we got some serious photo ops in before we had to tackle the ascent back up to get out of the village. All in all it was a pretty full morning/afteroon, especially after our early start, and we were more than ready for a good meal and relaxing by the end. And some time to catch up on the good old blog!
Tomorrow, Christina, Ben and I are going to tackle Fansipan, Vietnam's highest peak. I'm so excited! At 3,143 meters (about 10,312 feet), it is called the "Roof of Indochina" - and we're planning to do it in one day (because we don't have warm enough gear to brave a night out there). We are hoping to reach the top and return in about 10 hours or so with our guide who we will meet at 5 am tomorrow morning - WISH US LUCK!
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Rain, Rain, Go Away (in Hue)!
It's been a little rainy here, but the city of Hue has treated us well for our brief stay here. We really enjoyed our final morning in Hoi An (and I did try the famous "White Rose" before I left...it was okay, but Cao Lau was definitely tastier), and then we got on the bus headed for Hue around 2pm on Tuesday. The drive was only about 4 hours, so not too bad, and it was actually a pretty crazy drive up the coast because we were able to see a lot of devastation from the recent typhoon as we drove. There was even a huge tanker that had been beached, and tons of sea walls and roads that had been pretty much ruined.
So, yes, I don't love our rainy days, but I'll take a few over experiencing the actual typhoon any day!
We got to the town of Hue (rhymes with "day") around 6pm or so, and we tried to navigate the dark, rainy streets to find a decent place to stay (without giving in to all the hawkers shouting at us to stay at their grimy hotels for too much money!). We finally found a great place called the "Sports Hotel" of all things, but there really isn't any sports paraphernalia or vibe to speak of...but, there are great, CLEAN, comforter-like blankets on the beds AND a shower curtain (that's something we haven't seen in ages)!. After we unpacked a little, we wandered for a little bit before having dinner and then just calling it a night.
Our 2nd day here was much better than the first. It's definitely not easy to adjust to a new city or town in the dark (not to mention the rain!), so my mood was much improved after a run along the Perfume River (they call it that because the water is "clean"...I'm not so sure the brown water suggests cleanliness, but that's the story anyway) and one of the canals that runs into it. It was really nice to be able to run without combating traffic, and there were lots of little sidewalks and paths along the waterways that let me zone out and just look at the people and places around me. For example, there are lots of really cool dragon boats here as well as many, many simple/precariously-built houseboats where people live on the canals. The town in general is a little waterlogged, like Hoi An was, but it seems like the rainy season is on its way out, so people are pretty hopeful that the water will dissipate soon.
After a good run, I showered, had some eggs, bread and fruit (new one to add to the list = mangos teen, SO GOOD!), and I tried to write out a "plan of attack" for sights to see in this old town.
To give you a little history: Hue was the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty, which dominated most of Southern Vietnam from the 17th to the 19th century. Hue was also the national capital until 1945, and during the Vietnam War it played a central role due to its location right near the border between North and South Vietnam. This city is also another UNESCO World Heritage Site and it has some really unique and interesting buildings, tombs, pagodas, and other architecture--this was a little bit of a great perk for us because we hadn't done much research and honestly had no idea what lay in store for us!
So, after a refreshing start with a new morning, I consulted the guidebook and a website or two before we rented bicycles and set out for a day of exploring. Not long after we started pedaling, a Vietnamese woman, Roy (I'm sure her name is actually a lot nicer and more feminine, but it sounded like Roy to me!), came up alongside us and struck up conversation. As she rode slowly by our sides on her moto, we were slowly "convinced" to ride along with her to see two of the best tombs (the Nguyen Emperors' tombs are some of the best relics here) in the city. She stuck with us for about 13km to get to the first tomb, that of Khai Dinh. It was a really gorgeous building, with dark grey, almost gothic architecture, on a big hill overlooking lots of lush green pine trees, hills, and misty skies. Around the tomb itself was some incredible mosaic work, and it definitely felt like we had stepped into a little palace that you'd never know existed if looking from the street.
After visiting tomb #1, Roy was patiently awaiting our return, and she led us via shortcut to the second tomb, that of Minh Mang. This tomb was older than the first, and it had completely different architecture, colors, and landscape than the first. There were really nice ponds on the grounds, lots of bright colors, windy white trees, and peaceful pathways to wander on. I'm going to try and put some pictures up of these two places so hopefully you will be able to see them both!
After exploring the two tombs for a little while, we got back on our bikes and Roy took us to her home. It was a very modest wooden house in a village on the river (she kept apologizing for its simplicity, and we couldn't reassure her enough!), and she served us tea with a really adorable porcelain tea set.
Roy and her husband are farmers and grow crops like peanuts, corn, beans, rice, and bananas on her mother-in-law's farm a few kilometers down the road from her place. She has a daughter and a son, 13 and 15 years old, and she has clearly worked hard for their education. Roy is pretty remarkable herself, as she has taught herself English by simply spending a few hours each afternoon (or as often as possible) talking to tourists on the river bank. She was unable to get much proper schooling because her family was too poor to send her to school for long, but she loves to learn. She kept thanking us for taking the time to talk with her, and we clearly enjoyed her and such a special afternoon in her home. It was also interesting and a little scary to hear her recount how the typhoon had impacted her village and the farmers' lives. The people here, just as so many places we've visited, are clearly tough and very resilient. I am, once again, definitely impressed.
After our time with Roy, we cycled back on our own to see the Thien Mu Pagoda, which is the largest pagoda in the city and its "official symbol." My favorite part of visiting this pagoda was seeing all the really young children in monk attire (some were probably only 8 or 9 years old!), with shaved heads and only one long tuft or lock of hair remaining. The kids were really cute, and they were running around as though they were late for class...hmmm...maybe all kids are the same after all!
We then cycled around the Citadel before returning our bicycles for the night and then found some satisfying food for dinner and tucked into bed.
Today has been a pretty rainy morning so far (hence the blog update already!), but I still got in a great run along the river, and I'm appreciating some time to catch up on picture sorting, uploading, etc. Then, tonight, we leave on another (GASP!) overnight bus that will take us up to Hanoi. It leaves around 5pm and gets to Hanoi about 6am tomorrow...oh mannnn. Sleeping pills, anyone?!
I hope everyone is doing well & getting a good dose of some fall colors, which I'm missing a little bit. Along with some cider...that sounds so good right now!
After Hanoi, we plan to go into the Northern part of the country, to Sapa, where there should be a little brisk, autumn-like weather, so that will be a nice? reminder of the Fall. Then again, I've never really liked being very cold, so maybe I should just get over it :)
Thinking of you all...
So, yes, I don't love our rainy days, but I'll take a few over experiencing the actual typhoon any day!
We got to the town of Hue (rhymes with "day") around 6pm or so, and we tried to navigate the dark, rainy streets to find a decent place to stay (without giving in to all the hawkers shouting at us to stay at their grimy hotels for too much money!). We finally found a great place called the "Sports Hotel" of all things, but there really isn't any sports paraphernalia or vibe to speak of...but, there are great, CLEAN, comforter-like blankets on the beds AND a shower curtain (that's something we haven't seen in ages)!. After we unpacked a little, we wandered for a little bit before having dinner and then just calling it a night.
Our 2nd day here was much better than the first. It's definitely not easy to adjust to a new city or town in the dark (not to mention the rain!), so my mood was much improved after a run along the Perfume River (they call it that because the water is "clean"...I'm not so sure the brown water suggests cleanliness, but that's the story anyway) and one of the canals that runs into it. It was really nice to be able to run without combating traffic, and there were lots of little sidewalks and paths along the waterways that let me zone out and just look at the people and places around me. For example, there are lots of really cool dragon boats here as well as many, many simple/precariously-built houseboats where people live on the canals. The town in general is a little waterlogged, like Hoi An was, but it seems like the rainy season is on its way out, so people are pretty hopeful that the water will dissipate soon.
After a good run, I showered, had some eggs, bread and fruit (new one to add to the list = mangos teen, SO GOOD!), and I tried to write out a "plan of attack" for sights to see in this old town.
To give you a little history: Hue was the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty, which dominated most of Southern Vietnam from the 17th to the 19th century. Hue was also the national capital until 1945, and during the Vietnam War it played a central role due to its location right near the border between North and South Vietnam. This city is also another UNESCO World Heritage Site and it has some really unique and interesting buildings, tombs, pagodas, and other architecture--this was a little bit of a great perk for us because we hadn't done much research and honestly had no idea what lay in store for us!
So, after a refreshing start with a new morning, I consulted the guidebook and a website or two before we rented bicycles and set out for a day of exploring. Not long after we started pedaling, a Vietnamese woman, Roy (I'm sure her name is actually a lot nicer and more feminine, but it sounded like Roy to me!), came up alongside us and struck up conversation. As she rode slowly by our sides on her moto, we were slowly "convinced" to ride along with her to see two of the best tombs (the Nguyen Emperors' tombs are some of the best relics here) in the city. She stuck with us for about 13km to get to the first tomb, that of Khai Dinh. It was a really gorgeous building, with dark grey, almost gothic architecture, on a big hill overlooking lots of lush green pine trees, hills, and misty skies. Around the tomb itself was some incredible mosaic work, and it definitely felt like we had stepped into a little palace that you'd never know existed if looking from the street.
After visiting tomb #1, Roy was patiently awaiting our return, and she led us via shortcut to the second tomb, that of Minh Mang. This tomb was older than the first, and it had completely different architecture, colors, and landscape than the first. There were really nice ponds on the grounds, lots of bright colors, windy white trees, and peaceful pathways to wander on. I'm going to try and put some pictures up of these two places so hopefully you will be able to see them both!
After exploring the two tombs for a little while, we got back on our bikes and Roy took us to her home. It was a very modest wooden house in a village on the river (she kept apologizing for its simplicity, and we couldn't reassure her enough!), and she served us tea with a really adorable porcelain tea set.
Roy and her husband are farmers and grow crops like peanuts, corn, beans, rice, and bananas on her mother-in-law's farm a few kilometers down the road from her place. She has a daughter and a son, 13 and 15 years old, and she has clearly worked hard for their education. Roy is pretty remarkable herself, as she has taught herself English by simply spending a few hours each afternoon (or as often as possible) talking to tourists on the river bank. She was unable to get much proper schooling because her family was too poor to send her to school for long, but she loves to learn. She kept thanking us for taking the time to talk with her, and we clearly enjoyed her and such a special afternoon in her home. It was also interesting and a little scary to hear her recount how the typhoon had impacted her village and the farmers' lives. The people here, just as so many places we've visited, are clearly tough and very resilient. I am, once again, definitely impressed.
After our time with Roy, we cycled back on our own to see the Thien Mu Pagoda, which is the largest pagoda in the city and its "official symbol." My favorite part of visiting this pagoda was seeing all the really young children in monk attire (some were probably only 8 or 9 years old!), with shaved heads and only one long tuft or lock of hair remaining. The kids were really cute, and they were running around as though they were late for class...hmmm...maybe all kids are the same after all!
We then cycled around the Citadel before returning our bicycles for the night and then found some satisfying food for dinner and tucked into bed.
Today has been a pretty rainy morning so far (hence the blog update already!), but I still got in a great run along the river, and I'm appreciating some time to catch up on picture sorting, uploading, etc. Then, tonight, we leave on another (GASP!) overnight bus that will take us up to Hanoi. It leaves around 5pm and gets to Hanoi about 6am tomorrow...oh mannnn. Sleeping pills, anyone?!
I hope everyone is doing well & getting a good dose of some fall colors, which I'm missing a little bit. Along with some cider...that sounds so good right now!
After Hanoi, we plan to go into the Northern part of the country, to Sapa, where there should be a little brisk, autumn-like weather, so that will be a nice? reminder of the Fall. Then again, I've never really liked being very cold, so maybe I should just get over it :)
Thinking of you all...
Monday, November 2, 2009
Hoi An and Cao Lau are two little gems of Vietnam!
It's been a lonnnnng day, but we are safe, happy (and a little waterlogged) in the really quaint town of Hoi An.
Back in Na Trang, our last spot, we spent our first day, which was a little overcast, exploring the coast by bicycle and going for some good walks to explore the area. It was a little chilly for swimming in the ocean waves, but the coastline was really pretty to walk along, and the beach itself was very inviting. Lots of locals playing volleyball, playing in the surf, and just enjoying the fresh air. It is typically a touristy spot, but we didn't feel too overwhelmed by other tourists for the most part.
There are lots of little islands off the coast in Na Trang to look at as well, and their hilly, lush green forests a make the horizon really picturesque and kind of like a scene from a movie in the tropics. The town is pretty built up (there were even major hotels like Sheraton and Novotel), and there was definitely more happening and going on than in the tiny towns of Mui Ne or Dalat where we had just come from. It was definitely a change of pace, but really each place we've been in Vietnam has been very unique so far.
Day#2, Sunday, in Na Trang was even better than the first, as we signed up for a $7 boat ride to the islands and a "snorkel trip," which turned out to be completely ridiculous, but totally fun. There was very little actual snorkeling and the available masks were so scratched that we couldn't have seen much even if it had been a great coral reef scene, BUT the whole day was so absurd (and wonderful!) that I doubt I can do justice the acivities...but I'll try.
The tour company took about 60 people or so out on a medium sized ferry-style boat out to the 4 islands. The boat had about 10 foreigners (Australians, one Italian, one British man, and a handful of other Americans) and lots of Vietnamese people, and it departed the dock around 8am. We were quickly greeted by our leader, who was very engaging and told us how much of a "party" we were about to have...it was a LITTLE early for his enthusiasm, but we were excited...as long as we got lots of swimming time and not too much sitting on the boat time! Anyway, we did get to enjoy some gorgetous weather and calm water as we puttered across (the boat was NO Speedy Gonzolez)to each island. The snorkeling, as I said, did not turn out to be great (plus there were tons of baby jellies stinging us like crazy!), but there was a total Vietnamese feast for lunch (the benches we sat on turned into a table on the boat), a band that played music for us (the benches/table then turned into a stage), great swimming and really awesome people on the trip to get to know. It was a beautiful day overall. After returning, I went to church in Vietnamese (which I understood VERY little of, but was a great way to top off the day), and then we got ready/geared up for the dreaded night bus ride to the next town, Hoi An. Hoi An would be our "halfway" checkpoint since it is almost halfway up the country between Saigon and Hanoi.
The bus ride overnight was QUITE the experience. Each person got their own TINY little reclining seat with a hole to put your feet in under the person in front of you's head. If you were any wider than a pretty tiny individual, you definitely would not have been able to fit into this lovely set-up--the seats were so skinny! The drivers here also feel the need to blast the horn pretty incessantly for every little thing that comes within 100 feet of their vehicles...not really like a lull-a-bye to put you to sleep...
So, the bus left Na Trang at around 7:30pm, we stopped once at a restaurant around midnight, and then it drove nonstop until Hoi An, where we arrived around 7:30 am today. There was not a lot of sleeping going on, but it was really nice to get all the road time out of the way without wasting a day. We've been a little groggy though today...but we made it!
So, we are now in Hoi An, and, although it's been a very rainy day, I really, really like it here. It might be my favorite town that we've see in Vietnam so far. It is so quaint and charming! It is atually another (like Melacca in Malaysia) UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you really feel like you are walking around in a little European town as you navigate tiny streets, art galleries, cafes, and clothing/leather/souvenir shops. There is a ton of water because of all the rains, like I said, so the river that the town is on is really, really full, but there are still people riding around on bikes and motorcycles, even through the flooded streets. Life is busy and carrying on as usual.
This is also THE place for tailoring and shoemaking, and you can basically pick out any design of clothing or shoes that you'd like, and someone can custom-make your creation for you in about a day. I "created" some red leather sandals today that I'm pretty excited for pick-up tomorrow afternoon!
Besides just wandering and getting the feeling of this place, Arati and I also paused to have lunch and read at a little cafe that served the local specialty, Cao Lau, which was SO yummy. It's basically a bowl of special, thick, fat noodles with croutons (but more like rice puffs than American croutons) a few veggies, tofu (or pork if you want), and a really tasty sauce. Not too complicated, but the combination is really delicious. The other local specialty here is called White Rose, and it is basically a steamed dumpling with shrimp inside - I'm pretty excited to try that out soon. In general, the food here seems much better, healthier, and more enticing overall than the other places we've been in Vietnam, and we're pretty happy with that development (In trying to keep my stomach "happy", I've had so many bananas, peanut butter, egg dishes and white rice since we've arrived...so ready for some variety, fingers crossed!).
After a few days here (hopefully the rain will clear up for us tomorrow!), we are going to go to the next coastal town of Hue and then we'll make another long haul bus trip up to Hanoi. I am really liking Hoi An though, and I'm excited to spend a few days decompressing here and soaking up some really great architecture, food, sights, and culture.
Oh, and Happy Belated Halloween from Vietnam!! (We actually DID find a little Halloween party at our hostel in Na Trang...there was no trick-or-treating (so I had to pay for a little chocolate treat on principle), but the staff and guests of our place were ALL decked out in costumes and free face painting made the scene much more festive. I hope you all got some good costumes and had some serious chocolate on my behalf! Until next time - rabbit rabbit!
Back in Na Trang, our last spot, we spent our first day, which was a little overcast, exploring the coast by bicycle and going for some good walks to explore the area. It was a little chilly for swimming in the ocean waves, but the coastline was really pretty to walk along, and the beach itself was very inviting. Lots of locals playing volleyball, playing in the surf, and just enjoying the fresh air. It is typically a touristy spot, but we didn't feel too overwhelmed by other tourists for the most part.
There are lots of little islands off the coast in Na Trang to look at as well, and their hilly, lush green forests a make the horizon really picturesque and kind of like a scene from a movie in the tropics. The town is pretty built up (there were even major hotels like Sheraton and Novotel), and there was definitely more happening and going on than in the tiny towns of Mui Ne or Dalat where we had just come from. It was definitely a change of pace, but really each place we've been in Vietnam has been very unique so far.
Day#2, Sunday, in Na Trang was even better than the first, as we signed up for a $7 boat ride to the islands and a "snorkel trip," which turned out to be completely ridiculous, but totally fun. There was very little actual snorkeling and the available masks were so scratched that we couldn't have seen much even if it had been a great coral reef scene, BUT the whole day was so absurd (and wonderful!) that I doubt I can do justice the acivities...but I'll try.
The tour company took about 60 people or so out on a medium sized ferry-style boat out to the 4 islands. The boat had about 10 foreigners (Australians, one Italian, one British man, and a handful of other Americans) and lots of Vietnamese people, and it departed the dock around 8am. We were quickly greeted by our leader, who was very engaging and told us how much of a "party" we were about to have...it was a LITTLE early for his enthusiasm, but we were excited...as long as we got lots of swimming time and not too much sitting on the boat time! Anyway, we did get to enjoy some gorgetous weather and calm water as we puttered across (the boat was NO Speedy Gonzolez)to each island. The snorkeling, as I said, did not turn out to be great (plus there were tons of baby jellies stinging us like crazy!), but there was a total Vietnamese feast for lunch (the benches we sat on turned into a table on the boat), a band that played music for us (the benches/table then turned into a stage), great swimming and really awesome people on the trip to get to know. It was a beautiful day overall. After returning, I went to church in Vietnamese (which I understood VERY little of, but was a great way to top off the day), and then we got ready/geared up for the dreaded night bus ride to the next town, Hoi An. Hoi An would be our "halfway" checkpoint since it is almost halfway up the country between Saigon and Hanoi.
The bus ride overnight was QUITE the experience. Each person got their own TINY little reclining seat with a hole to put your feet in under the person in front of you's head. If you were any wider than a pretty tiny individual, you definitely would not have been able to fit into this lovely set-up--the seats were so skinny! The drivers here also feel the need to blast the horn pretty incessantly for every little thing that comes within 100 feet of their vehicles...not really like a lull-a-bye to put you to sleep...
So, the bus left Na Trang at around 7:30pm, we stopped once at a restaurant around midnight, and then it drove nonstop until Hoi An, where we arrived around 7:30 am today. There was not a lot of sleeping going on, but it was really nice to get all the road time out of the way without wasting a day. We've been a little groggy though today...but we made it!
So, we are now in Hoi An, and, although it's been a very rainy day, I really, really like it here. It might be my favorite town that we've see in Vietnam so far. It is so quaint and charming! It is atually another (like Melacca in Malaysia) UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you really feel like you are walking around in a little European town as you navigate tiny streets, art galleries, cafes, and clothing/leather/souvenir shops. There is a ton of water because of all the rains, like I said, so the river that the town is on is really, really full, but there are still people riding around on bikes and motorcycles, even through the flooded streets. Life is busy and carrying on as usual.
This is also THE place for tailoring and shoemaking, and you can basically pick out any design of clothing or shoes that you'd like, and someone can custom-make your creation for you in about a day. I "created" some red leather sandals today that I'm pretty excited for pick-up tomorrow afternoon!
Besides just wandering and getting the feeling of this place, Arati and I also paused to have lunch and read at a little cafe that served the local specialty, Cao Lau, which was SO yummy. It's basically a bowl of special, thick, fat noodles with croutons (but more like rice puffs than American croutons) a few veggies, tofu (or pork if you want), and a really tasty sauce. Not too complicated, but the combination is really delicious. The other local specialty here is called White Rose, and it is basically a steamed dumpling with shrimp inside - I'm pretty excited to try that out soon. In general, the food here seems much better, healthier, and more enticing overall than the other places we've been in Vietnam, and we're pretty happy with that development (In trying to keep my stomach "happy", I've had so many bananas, peanut butter, egg dishes and white rice since we've arrived...so ready for some variety, fingers crossed!).
After a few days here (hopefully the rain will clear up for us tomorrow!), we are going to go to the next coastal town of Hue and then we'll make another long haul bus trip up to Hanoi. I am really liking Hoi An though, and I'm excited to spend a few days decompressing here and soaking up some really great architecture, food, sights, and culture.
Oh, and Happy Belated Halloween from Vietnam!! (We actually DID find a little Halloween party at our hostel in Na Trang...there was no trick-or-treating (so I had to pay for a little chocolate treat on principle), but the staff and guests of our place were ALL decked out in costumes and free face painting made the scene much more festive. I hope you all got some good costumes and had some serious chocolate on my behalf! Until next time - rabbit rabbit!
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